BILL bus bar chamber clamps.

[GBDamo]

These are new to me so looking for some advice.

Can't open the thing until out of hours at the weekend so I was hoping one of our more senior members could impart some wisdom.

Are they pretty standard?

Would these do the job?

Thanks.

 

[Petej999]

These are new to me so looking for some advice.

View attachment 100221

Can't open the thing until out of hours at the weekend so I was hoping one of our more senior members could impart some wisdom.

Are they pretty standard?

Would these do the job?
View attachment 100222

Thanks.

Depends on the size .style of the busbars within the chamber Mate, get hold of a bill switchgear catalogue and check the references at your local wholesaler, you may find that when you open the chamber there will be some spare lugs and clamps in there.

 

[westward10]

Worked on plenty of those now I can't picture the bars in my head. What you have won't fit I am fairly sure although not certain you drill out the bars and fit nuts and bolts but don't hold me to that.

 

[Electro-tech]

I have Bill Busbar / switchgear 1200A 3phase and inside the Chamber, they are solid round copper conductors from memory 3/4"or larger. I had to improvise with something that resembled a chrome exhaust clamp. Not ideal but been working for years now .

 

[GBDamo]

This is only on a commercial 100A TPN supply so no monstrous sized busbar.

Anything more than 100A makes me sack retract, leave that stuff to someone who knows what they're doing.

 

[davesparks]

I think that pre-dates the Bill/MEM merger so no the MEM type clamps you linked aren't going to fit.

As mentioned above its probably solid bars you have to drill and bolt to, but it could very well have spare bolts already in there.

Just don't use the busbar fixing bolts as terminal bolts.

 

[westward10]

If you have your lugs then get brass bolts, nuts and washers to suit.

 

[freddo]

Never seen a Bill logo like that before, and there is bill stuff used all over the place here,

 

[GBDamo]

Just don't use the busbar fixing bolts as terminal bolts.

Spoil sport....

Words words words.

 

[davesparks]

If you have your lugs then get brass bolts, nuts and washers to suit.

Why do you say brass? The bolt is clamping the lug, not intentionally forming part of the current path. Manufacturers normally use steel bolts for copper bus bars.

For example the neutral bar in a schneider panel board is a copper bar supplied with steel bolts and belleville washers.

 

[westward10]

Why do you say brass? The bolt is clamping the lug, not intentionally forming part of the current path. Manufacturers normally use steel bolts for copper bus bars.

For example the neutral bar in a schneider panel board is a copper bar supplied with steel bolts and belleville washers.

This is true it doesn't really matter I just opt for brass.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

I agree it probably has flat solid bars and doesn't need clamps. Resist the temptation to use roofing bolts. Belleville washers are good but single-coil spring washers conventional.

 

[Electro-tech]

This is only on a commercial 100A TPN supply so no monstrous sized busbar.

Anything more than 100A makes me sack retract, leave that stuff to someone who knows what they're doing.

It will be interesting what you do Find.

 

[GBDamo]

It will be interesting what you do Find.

I will take some pictures

I agree it probably has flat solid bars and doesn't need clamps. Resist the temptation to use roofing bolts. Belleville washers are good but single-coil spring washers conventional.

I have some brass bolts, nuts and washers on order but as far as I can see there is currently only one tap of this chamber so I'm hoping there is plenty of spares inside.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

As per @davesparks it is quite in order to use BZP steel nuts and bolts and they have the advantage of withstanding higher tightening torques, which can be important where a small bolt has to hold a large lug. Current flows almost exclusively through the contact between the lug and the bar.

Brass (especially nickel-plated) is good where high corrosion resistance is important or you have a stack of terminals carrying a high current through contact between the nuts and the bolt. As a former marine power installer I habitually reach for the NP brass but it's not always required or the best.