BS3036 Safe Isolation Qunadry | on ElectriciansForums

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pumpkinbreath

Hi all

This is going to sound like a stupid question to most of the people on this site but for me it's something I was never taught. I've got my qualifications and have been at college nearly 3 years and now I'm done I've realised that I've never been taught/shown how to safely isolate a single circuit on an old board with rewireable fuses. I was only taught 17th edition stuff. I've heard people talk about "pulling" the fuse but does that mean the whole thing just slips in and out or is there any un-wiring involved??

Cheers for any feedback and mild p**staking

Andrew
 
Basically yes mate, just work out which fuse in the CU covers the particular circuit you want & just gently rock top to bottom & they pull out. Gotta be said though, that only gives you single pole isolation. For true isolation you need to turn off the main switch or RCD if fitted.
 
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Take a good look at them before you put your hands on them, the bakelite sometimes cracks or goes brittle over time and if you try to pull one of those you could end up with a handfull of current which won't be much fun.
 
Yeah I did some work on a circuit connected with this type of fuse a week or so ago and had to flip the main switch. Pretty irratating cause it was late and had to do the job in the darK! Thanks for that guys, I knew it couldn't be too complicated.

Andrew
 
I would suggest always turning the cu off before pulling the fuse,

if you pull the wrong one and there is a lot of current flowing you can get a hefty spark, not the best thing to happen when you may be up some steps.

you can turn the cu back on when the fuse has been pulled so you have some power
 
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Yeah I did some work on a circuit connected with this type of fuse a week or so ago and had to flip the main switch. Pretty irratating cause it was late and had to do the job in the darK! Thanks for that guys, I knew it couldn't be too complicated. Andrew

Unless the circuit you were working on was lighting and the fuse pulled controlled that circuit, then why not switch the CU back on?? Besides, that would be exactly the same situation on the latest most upto date CU with MCB/RCBO's etc...
 
Unless the circuit you were working on was lighting and the fuse pulled controlled that circuit, then why not switch the CU back on?? Besides, that would be exactly the same situation on the latest most upto date CU with MCB/RCBO's etc...

I was wondering why too but thought it may be a daft question/observation!
 
Same as others have said, best to turn off at the main switch. I had a belt many years ago from a rewirable when someone had replaced the wire but not cut it to size leaving a hair of 5A poking out right where you grip the fuse.

On another note, I'm amazed that in 3 years of training you were never shown safe isolation or an explanation on one of the most common consumer units in the country. These training bodies are getting worse.
 
Not sure if you mean me Murdoch, I had not got to working on the board at this time, I was only moving the coats hanging over it. Lol
Which gives more reason for rewirables to be replaced as the normal person has no clue on how to deal with them.
 
Another thing to note with 3036 d/bs is that if, after removing the fuse you notice some white material behind it, this could very possibly be asbestos. Old Bill and Mem boards often have this stuff.
 

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