Can I run an electric cooker and an electric induction hob off the same power feed?

[ngc1967]

At the moment I have a stand alone cooker – it is an electric oven with gas hobs.

I want to get rid of this and extend my kitchen worktop to put a new ‘built in’ electric oven underneath in a new oven cabinet and a surface mounted electric Induction Hob on top. (I shall be getting a Gas Safe Engineer out to disconnect the gas part of the cooker and cap off the gas feed.)

With the current electrical set up, I only have one power feed cable from my distribution board/box (which is in another room - hallway 10m away). I have been told that this is a 6mm2 Twin and Earth cable and runs from a 32A MCB in the distribution board/box over to a 45A Cooker switch on the kitchen wall. The cable then runs directly down to a single power output connection plate where the existing cooker connects into.

The new built in oven I want to get has an electrical connection rating of 3,450W (the spec also says Current 16A and Voltage 220-240V) and the Hob has an electrical connection rating of 7,400W (the spec says Current 32A and Voltage 220-240V). These are two separate units.

My logic says that putting the two together would mean an electrical connection rating of 10,850W with a Current requirement of 48A but I don’t think it actually works like that with the current rating, and this is where I am lost.

Before I ask an electrician to come out and give me quote for the work:-

Would I be able to use this existing cable and changing the existing single output plate to a 45A Dual Appliance Connection Plate so that both the Oven and Hob can be connected up to the same cable/cooker circuit? (i.e. the existing 6mm2 cable with the 45A Cooker Switch and 32A MCB)

Another option would be to run a second 6mm2 power cable over to a new 45A switch recessed in the kitchen wall and then running down to a new 45A single output plate for the Hob to connect into. This would mean that I have two 6mm2 cables, two 45A switches and two output plates – one for the Hob and one for the Cooker. Or would I need another cable?

The problem with this is that I don’t have any more spare positions on the distribution board/box for a new MCB trip fuse which would mean a new larger consumer unit and complete re-wiring. Also I don’t know which way the existing cable runs (up into the ceiling, or down into the floor). Either way I would need to dig up the laminate floor or break into the ceiling which is all very costly.

The last option is to get an Induction Hob that will run off a 13A socket, which is available, but I have heard that you cannot run all hobs on full power at the same time (i.e. they all run at about 50%)

I would really like to do the first method if possible and have both running off the same dual feed.

Can anyone help me on this?

 

[telectrix]

Would I be able to use this existing cable and changing the existing single output plate to a 45A Dual Appliance Connection Plate so that both the Oven and Hob can be connected up to the same cable/cooker circuit? (i.e. the existing 6mm2 cable with the 45A Cooker Switch and 32A MCB)

YES. Allowing for diversity ( elements are switching on and off so you never see the full rated load at any one time).

 

[telectrix]

with the load you state, design current would be 22A for hob and oven combined. 27A if you have a socket outlet on the cooker isolator. job's a good 'un.

 

[Midwest]

Allowing for diversity on those two appliances, I get a figure of 28.4 anps (calculating each appliance individually using 16 & 32a respectively, not combined and no socket), but still ok for the existing cable & ocpd. So agree with Tel.

The only concern I have is for those induction hobs in general. I understand they are constantly switching on & off, even at maximum setting. One day I'm gonna clamp one, and see what they do pull. But then again, I might not.

 

[Octopus]

Who is fitting the kitchen and doing the electrics?

 

[Billsays]

Whilst i agree it Calcs out I would not recommend it. Ive had call outs the last two Christmas days for people with tripping cookers. Every ring on and oven on full bore does happen!
However if the OP is aware of this risk then its his decision.

 

[Midwest]

Who is fitting the kitchen and doing the electrics?

Sod that get on the Transformer 3d ride

 

[Doomed]

Check the installation manual, if the manufacturer states that it should have its own supply then thats what you have to do.

 

[Octopus]

Sod that get on the Transformer 3d ride

Which is where we are now!

 

[ngc1967]

Thanks to all your replies. The first few seemed quite positive and I was feeling optimistic about not having to run a new cable, but the last ones are making me doubt it.

Who is fitting the kitchen and doing the electrics?

I haven't decided who will do the work yet but the NICEIC qualified electrician will be independent to any kitchen fitters as I need to have the gas cooker removed first of all and the gas supply capped off. I then want to have the built in oven and hob temporarily installed and connected so that I can still cook before the kitchen fitters come in. It sounds a long winded way to do it and it's a long story why, but the kitchen fitters don't do gas and it's too risky to try and coordinate all the removals and installations over a day or two with the other work I need to do beforehand as well!
The kitchen fitters will connect electrical appliances though so they will permanently re-connect the oven and hob when they do the kitchen.

Check the installation manual, if the manufacturer states that it should have its own supply then thats what you have to do.

I also haven't decided on the oven or hob yet so I don't know what the installation manual says although I might try and download the ones I am interested in.

 

[Richard Burns]

The general recommendation for cooker circuits is that a combined load up to 15kW should be suitable for connection to a 32A circuit breaker with 6mm² cable.
Since your combined total load is 10.85kW you should be OK.
Using the dual outlet plate means that if the cables for the oven and hob are different sizes you can still get a secure connection for these significant loads.

 

[Octopus]

^^ why "the NICEIC" electrician? Have you identified one? There are other schemes too....

 

[Des 56]

^^ why "the NICEIC" electrician? Have you identified one? There are other schemes too....

Yes,why indeed Niceic
Its like wanting to buy a pot of jam,then restricting yourself to Sainsburys whilst Tesco may have Jam with better quality

 

[telectrix]

and stroma are the aldi of the schemes. half the price and just as good.

 

[Midwest]

I then want to have the built in oven and hob temporarily installed and connected so that I can still cook before the kitchen fitters come in.

You might want to re-think that. All the kitchen refurbs' I've been involved in, the householder is temporarily 'banned' from the kitchen.

Generally the old kitchen is ripped out, electrics & plumbing done. Plastering, drying time. Decoration, then new kitchen installed. If you beg my pardon, you farting around in that process cooking dinner, is not going to go down well and will delay things.

Live on microwave meals, takeaways or go down the pub for your evening meal.