The cable is installed in 3 metres of trunking, 3 metres clipped direct, and 5metres in the joist space with no insulation,
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Discuss Can I use a 4mm T&E for a 7.5Kw shower? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Good question, think theres loads of factors like how hard the water is, limescale, how cold the water is, how loose the connections are to how much juice these bad boys need to perform at the right temperature.Don't they run at full load continuous on full power ?
Or am I missing something ?
What's the biggest brand in the UK then
Triton seems to be rated higher than Mira here and there was load of problems with the Mira qt apparently
I usually take away the old elite 2 and ST when fitting a shower to keep for my own place, they don't give much trouble
Load of spares I can't be doing with paying for showers for myself
I think mira and Triton are both very good recognised brands but for me neither.What's the biggest brand in the UK then
Triton seems to be rated higher than Mira here and there was load of problems with the Mira qt apparently
I usually take away the old elite 2 and ST when fitting a shower to keep for my own place, they don't give much trouble
Load of spares I can't be doing with paying for showers for myself
Hello wigwamabama,And what is wrong with filling a bath from the hot tap only, if you have a combi boiler? Surely it's more ridiculous to use large amounts of gas to heat the bath water, and then turn the cold tap on just to make it cold again?
There is no difference in the power consumed on a hot vs cold day, you just adjust the "temperature control" which allows more or less water to flow over the heating elements.Good question, think theres loads of factors like how hard the water is, limescale, how cold the water is, how loose the connections are to how much juice these bad boys need to perform at the right temperature.
Like a cold frosty day on an old shower with hard water surely its full load constantly.
Be one for the manufactures that one as its the appliance that determines the load required to do its job.
Id say same as james.
You could always put a clamp meter on wack it on full power and watch what happens on a cold day vs a hot day e.t.c.
But im sure we all have better things to do ?
Don't opperate the isolator under load conditions, use the control on the shower to stop it and switch the isolator off when you leave the shower r\/ bathroom6mm or above all day long, cable needs upgrading. Even with 6mm cable im still going out to jobs were plumbrrs have fit 9.5kw showers in with burnt up isolators causing tripping.
No one said they was but i say that to the customer everytime. Its only for emergency useDon't opperate the isolator under load conditions, use the control on the shower to stop it and switch the isolator off when you leave the shower r\/ bathroom
Interesting, i understand how a shower works but surely the element has to work harder to heat colder water same as a kettle as thats all a shower is just alot bigger version. If you have really cold water your kettle takes longer to boil.There is no difference in the power consumed on a hot vs cold day, you just adjust the "temperature control" which allows more or less water to flow over the heating elements.
You can change the power setting to "eco" which switches off one element, this element is generally but not always a little smaller than the other one so you may get around 60% flow on one element.
Low voltage, because power is proportional to V squared has a marked effect as well, you have no control over the mains supply but ensuring the correct sized cable will give you a 2 to 3V drop. I had, for many years, 243V (230V supply) at the shower terminals with shower running which meant my 9kw shower outputted 10kw.
what use is that? you fallover in the shower, how you going to reach that pull cord 6 feet away and 4ft/above .?No one said they was but i say that to the customer everytime. Its only for emergency use
Kettle has to raise water to boiling point so colder water takes longerInteresting, i understand how a shower works but surely the element has to work harder to heat colder water same as a kettle as thats all a shower is just alot bigger version. If you have really cold water your kettle takes longer to boil.
The question to answer further above was does an electric shower run on full load constantly??
I dont believe it does because of the factors listed above.
What do you think??
Shower runs on half/full load constantly as wellInteresting, i understand how a shower works but surely the element has to work harder to heat colder water same as a kettle as thats all a shower is just alot bigger version. If you have really cold water your kettle takes longer to boil.
The question to answer further above was does an electric shower run on full load constantly??
I dont believe it does because of the factors listed above.
What do you think??
? whats it going to help if you fall over in the shower switching off the isolator.what use is that? you fallover in the shower, how you going to reach that pull cord 6 feet away and 4ft/above .?
Reply to Can I use a 4mm T&E for a 7.5Kw shower? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net