Click connectors? or similar? | on ElectriciansForums

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L

lucky67

Sorry - DIYer alert
I have some downlighters fitted by a previous owner (who I call Mr Bodge-it) at least 10 yrs ago. They are mains voltage and linked together.
I need to move at least 2 of them - they are both installed tight to joists and I want to draughtproof them (they are into the attic space).
Long story but this might involve a new plasterboard ceiling - which in theory would be easy but the current one is packed out with bits of wood and plasterboard on the joists to make it level - something is not quite right (thanks mr bodge it)...
I want to be able to quickly and easily disconnect/isolate the lights so that I can turn the power back on - and if it takes as long as I think it might be able to reconnect them temporarily so that we have some light in there. (family commitments mean I won't have more than a couple of hours at a time to work on this)
Someone (in another forum) has recommended Click connectors...which seem like a good idea - I've been to a few local electrical trade stores today and no-one stocks them or had heard of them (except for one very helpful electrician in a trade shop but he didn't know where to get them....)- I can get them online but....
Is there anything else out there like these? Also the ones I have seen are rated 16amp or 20 amp ...I thought lighting circuits were 5amp? Or is that not relevant (they will handle up to 16amp)? Has anyone used them? Are they any good?
Grateful for any advice....
 
Supposedly searched for this but as soon as I posted saw another post about these too...
But actualy didn't understand all of it ...especially the stuff about the 50w bulb etc - I will say these are for ES bulbs (not GU10) - and have been using low energy ones (Megaman)
 
What you want are wago 3 lever conectors and chock boxes, are wago any good? I reckon 70% of this forum use them

you can obtain then from GIL-LEC cheaper than ebay
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I used some clicks last week

Nothing that special to be honest and i did not like the fact the feed side has no cable clamps etc
 
I think the wago seem more what I'm after -than the ceiling roses- but do you have to pull the cables out and push them back? Can you do that more than once? (not use the cable ties on the light side??? until ready to leave 'forever') And is there a specific type I need? (amp wise etc) I like the clicks because they seem really quick (no brainer) to pull apart and push together...
(Apart from the last light in the link) the lights have four wires going in (two lots of live and neutral -black and red) to the connector block -and two (L and N) going out to the light.

I'm assuming doing this - but not replacing cables etc - won't need to be certified...
 
Err, although wagos are great, I don't believe they are suitable for the purpose you described.

Wagos should be enclosed in a box incorporating cable restraints and so would be fiddly to keep disconnecting and reconnecting. Unless you isolate the whole board, you could easily accidentally expose yourself to live parts if not careful and may trip your rcd if you touch neutral to cpc.

The blue click connectors you have been told about are exactly what you are looking for (although they don't have proper cable restraints on the supply side). Just plug in and unplug as needed, with encapsulated terminals so comparatively safe if wired properly. Don't forget to use heatproof flex if wiring a short link from the connector to the light fitting.

Click Flow 16 Amp Push-in Connector
 
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Ok I'll go for the clicks....the 16 amp bit is right?
And heat proof cable??? If the lights are already fitted (joined with connector boxes) should the existing cable be ok (just use the clicks in place of the connector boxes?)
Currently they are just connector boxes - not enclosed - not even taped...was a bit worried when my cat was rubbing up against one when it came to see what I was upto...(curiosity killed the cat!!!)
 
Yes 16A is fine. The circuit protective device will no doubt be something like 5A or 6A. I guess they are rated at 16A because this is the highest allowable rating for a lighting circuit and these have an additional terminal allowing them to be used as junction boxes with loop in/loop out and switched live. In other words they can be used a bit like a ceiling rose, if you know what I mean!

Using heat resistant flex is probably more important when installing halogen fittings as they generate huge amounts of heat, but without seeing them or reading the manufacturers installations it's hard to say. Probably okay if they are ES lamp holders.

Cats are generally very well insulated, except, unfortunately, for the bit that they tend to investigate things with!
 
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