Connector Block Clarification

gjb1979 · Sep 9, 2011

I know that it is wrong to just use a connector block and tape it up. However, I really can't find the reg / regs that state this.
Can anyone point me in the wright direction?
I like to know exactly why Im doing what Im doing.
Cheers

Deleted member 19807 · Sep 9, 2011

somthing about all termination should be made in a suitable enclosure?

GLENNSPARK · Sep 9, 2011

A connector block for what?where is it going? whats it for? what current is it expected to carry?....lamps or ring?....More information please..............

Deleted member 19807 · Sep 9, 2011

try 526.5

cadspark · Sep 9, 2011

I never use connector blocks. Wagos are far easier than faffing with terminals.

MarkieSparkie · Sep 10, 2011

Hi, welcome to the forum.
BRB, 526.5 is the regulation you're looking for.
Any type of tape or sleeving is defined as supplementary insulation, even if it completely encloses the termination it is NOT an enclosure, nieve people in the trade would have us believe otherwise.
The other trap the inexperienced can fall fowl of is 526.5 (iii) an enclosure can be PARTIALLY formed or COMPLETED with non-combustible building material tested to BS 476-4, the enclosure CANNOT therefore be made totally from building material. The most common infringement of this is a crimped termination, covered with supplementary insulation (eg. heat-shrink sleeve) and buried directly in the wall with building material (eg. plaster).

johnboy6083 · Sep 10, 2011

I disagree with your second comment mate. If you crimp a connection, and that connection is electrically/mechanically sound, then for me, 2 layers of heat shrink is the best joint that cable could have. Gita be the stuff that has glue though. I'd rather that any day than a JB in the ceiling. Now if that does'nt comply, then I will list is a departure. I've jointed plenty of underwater cables using the above method, and they outlast the cable itself.

millwall ken · Sep 10, 2011

johnboy6083 said:
I disagree with your second comment mate. If you crimp a connection, and that connection is electrically/mechanically sound, then for me, 2 layers of heat shrink is the best joint that cable could have. Gita be the stuff that has glue though. I'd rather that any day than a JB in the ceiling. Now if that does'nt comply, then I will list is a departure. I've jointed plenty of underwater cables using the above method, and they outlast the cable itself.

Quite agree with you John, this is one of the deviations from BS7671 that I believe that you could always argue in court mate. The only arguement against it is that 'technically' you could break the joint if you were to pull it though conduit/trunking.

oldtimer · Sep 10, 2011

Never liked tape or connector joints so I carry some choc blocks with me and when I have to repair say a spotlight and find a connect joint I deem this as exposed live parts and as you say make sure the joint is electrically and mechanically sound (14th edition) then fit the chock box yep it adds £2 to the bill but that keeps me on the safe side and I have had no complaints otherwise even although it is or was pretty standard procedure to fit connector only and if you were posh you put insulation tape around it. Also to highlight years ago earth sleeving was very expensive stuff because the wholesaler knew you needed it plus if it turned up on a site it was snaffled before you could use it but yep things have moved on and there is no excuse not to fit an inline joint box or earth sleeving.