Converting LV MR16 Fixtures To MV GU10 - Safe? | on ElectriciansForums

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EViS

I ordered 14 Philips Master LED bulbs for my kitchen and I'm seriously impressed! So it's time to replace all the other halogens in the house. However, some of the fixtures take LV MR16 bulbs so I have a couple of questions about converting these into GU10 LED's.

1) The LV fixtures in the bathroom have a glass cap which screws into the fixture keeping the bulb in place within the fitting. Any reason why GU10 LED bulbs couldn't be used here?
2) Some of the LV fixtures which have the round spring clips in place (or a glass cap as above) to hold the bulbs have stickers on the fixtures stating that only LV bulbs are to be used. Any reason for this safety warning and why GU10 halogens or LED's couldn't be installed?
3) There are a couple of LV fixtures which don't have spring toggles to hold the bulbs in place. Is the only option to change the entire fixture for an MV one?
 
I think you use of 'LV' and 'MV' might be confused.You can't always just convert a SELV light fitting into a 220v one, there can be earthing issues. Also check your UK regs on special locations if they're in a bathroom. Are the 'spring toggles' just missing in action or were the fittings never supplied with them? Can't you just buy spare spring toggles to replace them?
 
I don't quite follow where the earthing issues would arise? The existing MR16 connectors and accompanying transformers would be replaced with a GU10 holder. What earthing issues do you see?

In terms of the spring toggles, there is a set of fixtures which do not make use of these as the MR16 connector is fixed in place within the light fixture. The bulbs slot into this and a bezel is then inserted into the fixture for added safety and aesthetic.
 
the earthing issue would arise if the fitting was not classII. the metalwork would need eartrhing with 230V whereas it is not required with a 12V fitting.

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the earthing issue would arise if the fitting was not classII. the metalwork would need eartrhing with 230V whereas it is not required with a 12V fitting.
 
Right, I'm with you. That would be the reason for the safety warning on these fixtures in this case.

In reality, and please don't read into this question too much as I am always one to side with caution (!), how much of a safety risk is there for a non-class II fixture that has been converted into one powering an MV LED?

If this is sincere, what's the best way to earth these LV fixtures?
 
Right, I'm with you. That would be the reason for the safety warning on these fixtures in this case.

In reality, and please don't read into this question too much as I am always one to side with caution (!), how much of a safety risk is there for a non-class II fixture that has been converted into one powering an MV LED?

If this is sincere, what's the best way to earth these LV fixtures?

Quite a big safety risk...it may just be easier changing the fitting...
 
with most GU10 fittings, the lampholder is entirely separate from the metalwork, so , in effect they are classII. and please learn the difference betweem selv, LV, HV. <50v, <1000V, >1000v respectively.
 
I converted all my 12V (ELV!) lighting to 230V (LV!) a year or so ago.
Sick to death with changing halogen lamps, made my money back with the GU LEDs I replaced them with on electric savings.
Just earthed the can as well.
 
in the middle of wiring my lady's dorter's extension. 12 LED downlighters in 1 room, measured with low amp clamp meter, pulling 0.26A for the lot. a real no-brainer. will save a bomb.
 
I'd loose the low voltage ones entirely and replace them with complete LED fittings, unless you want dimming then I'd go separate lamp and fitting. Both ways keeps each fitting at about ÂŁ20 each
 
Thanks for the info guys, especially the confusion arising from LV & HV.

If I were to keep the existing ELV fixtures, what the best way to earth them to then install some GU10's?
 
If I were to keep the existing ELV fixtures, what the best way to earth them to then install some GU10's?
If they don't have an earth connection point on them rather just replace them with more suitable fittings. Downlight fittings tend to be very inexpensive so it's not usually worth messing around with them.
 
Over the last few months I have replaced around 200 LV halogen downlights with GU10 LED's in an old folks home. The power saving must be huge. The downside is that they will now have to turn the heating up to compensate!
 

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