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Hi

I am installing an electric cooker and hob and just wanted to make sure of how I can connect them both.

In the cooker instructions it says that the cooker must be connected by no less than 4mm cable and the same for the hob.

So my question is can I bring a 10mm cable from the CU to the cooker switch then 10mm cable to the cooker outlet then split into two 4mm cables, one for the cooker and one for the hob.

Supplied by a 40A breaker and a 45A cooker switch

Many thanks
 
Try one of these, Click dual easyfit cooker out let. About £10. You can put a 10mm2 in and take 2 x 6mm2 out.


[ElectriciansForums.net] Cooker and Hob Connections


P.S Thanks to Taffy duck for this picture in a previous post. Search on google for this product.
 
Last edited:
The part numbers required are PRW217 and 218. I'll be fitting one myself on Tuesday. Used them several times - brilliant product.

I'll also be using 2.5 and 4mm H07RN-F for the final connections as this is heat and grease resistant, something t&e is not.
 
if it's coming off a 40A breaker, use 6mm, as long as not smothered in insulation. why struggle with 10mm?
 
This has been mentioned before you show a double connection unit but if the oven comes with a plugtop then cutting it off could affect the warranty plus you now have a 40A MCB protecting a 2kw oven so what I do is spur a 13A single socket off the CCU and this does 2 things it protects the oven with a 13A fuse not 40A plus if you need to replace the oven then it is a 5 minute job
 
Don't understand this current trend for "bigging up" cables, seemingly for the sake of it.
BS7671 contains all the info one could need to size cables properly, without 'exageration'.
 
This has been mentioned before you show a double connection unit but if the oven comes with a plugtop then cutting it off could affect the warranty plus you now have a 40A MCB protecting a 2kw oven so what I do is spur a 13A single socket off the CCU and this does 2 things it protects the oven with a 13A fuse not 40A plus if you need to replace the oven then it is a 5 minute job

utter rot!
 
if oven has a plug fitted, use a dual back box. CCU one side (for the hob) and a single socket the other.
 
utter rot!

Well sorry to wade in here it is not utter rot if you cut off a moulded plug I can asssure you that this is a get out of jail card for some companies as I have been to 2 jobs where this happened with a oven and a washing machine the oven was connected straight into the CCU and the argued that there was more damage done to the unit when the fault tripped the 32A mcb the washing machine was sorry you have interfeared with the units wiring as the moulded plug was cut off and connected straight into a FCU the repair guy stated I cannot safely isolate the machine from the FCU because like the PAT testers he was not qualified to go into the FCU to disconnect it.

Hence why I fit a 13A single socket it takes the same time as cutting the plug off but here is the twist if the unit breakdown it will only trip the 13A fuse in the plugtop leaving the supply on to the hob and it stops the owner from trying to reset the the 32A MCB and causing evenmore damage
 
Last edited by a moderator:
if it's coming off a 40A breaker, use 6mm, as long as not smothered in insulation. why struggle with 10mm?

if the manual suggests I use a minimum of 4mm for each of the appliances then wouldn't a 6mm feed cable not be sufficient for both?

Its a double oven and an all electric hob
 
Possibly.

6mm² and 32A mcb is good for up to 15kW cookers (ie oven and hob)

If the cable runs through any thermal insulation you will need to use the 10mm².

Also, if there is no thermal insulation and you decide to use 6mm², if the cable runs in any conduit you must use a 32A mcb.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

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