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Just noticed a fault with my cooker as in the cooker will not switch off from the mains switch on the wall. Isolated the cooker at the CU and took the switch off the wall and investigated what was going on.

When opened I noticed that there was a live wire sitting loose in the socket and it has been melted, its red most of the way up and then black until the copper, which is also burnt.

Only issue I want to know about is the wiring of the wall socket. I don't have a multimeter as im saving up for a decent one, but im worried in case the loose live cable is still live and might be a feedback from something else in the circuit. Theres a fan switch on the other side of the cooker and its still working but haven't checked the CU to see if its fused separately. Below is a photo of the socket and the wire, I know where the wire goes to on the plug Im just unsure where it comes from. Is it the feed to cooker wiring? Thanks in advance, might just kill all the power in the house to be sure before cutting and putting it back in.
[ElectriciansForums.net] Cooker Switch burnt live
 
Are you saying that even tho the incoming Live to that cooker switch is clearly burnt off and not connected, the cooker still works?

Must be fed from somewhere else.

Before touching that wire you need to turn off the consumer unit AND get a reliable voltage tester to test the cable end.

Just noticed it was working before you took the switch off, bet it doesn't work now, and the switch has had it.
 
Loose connection clearly will be causing the burning of the cable. Get a electrician in to sort it, will cost under 50 quid I would have thought to swap the switch and test the circuit.
 
yea the cooker still works, it actually fused the switch to the on position and it wouldnt allow me to switch it off from the switch itself. The live from the CU is connected ok but the other live which I think feeds the cooker itself is loose, im not sure if its still contacting the switch when the face plate is on making the cooker live or the neutral is feeding it power?? But its off at the CU and ill get someone else to have a look at it and see whats going on
 
the loose wire is from the CU as shown in the photo so I think its still contacting metal on the back of the faceplate and conducting current through it so the cooker is still working. What size of fused switch is normally used as a cooker switch? Incase the wrong switch is installed altogether
 
​Moved to DIY Electrical Forum.
 

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