Cooker switch DIY

[J.C.E]

Have come across a 10mm t&e supplied from 45a 60898 installed a/c. This runs into back of cooker switch back box- terminated into 45a connector blocks- then they have down sized to 6mm and supplied the supply side of the cooker switch -but the supply side has been doubled up with another 6mm supplying a near by single socket ref method a/c again.

then a 6mm from the load side of the cooker switch to a cooker outlet below.

from the cooker outlet- 1x 6mm supplying 4.5kw cooker and 1x 2.5mm (looks like factory flex) supplying a 8kw hob

I have added the kw's of both the hob and cooker together - took the 1st 10amps and remaining 30%
then I added 5amps (although the single socket is not actually on the cooker switch- but same idea I guess?

i got 28.3amps after diversity- so no problems on the overload side I guess.

all done fairly well to be honest when it comes to terminations- I am just not sure if I should pull up the 10mm into 6mm and the 2x 6mm doubled up in the supply side of the cooker switch although no cores appear to have been cut?

or am I just over thinking things here? Move on?

joe

 

[Pete999]

Are you sure you are a DIYer you seem to know your cable sizes?

 

[J.C.E]

Are you sure you are a DIYer you seem to know your cable sizes?

Lol

Something I have come across on a eicr. Coded it a c3-but thought I may have been harsh even if it's just a recommendations??

 

[Richard Burns]

So long as the cables are terminated correctly and safely there is no problem.

 

[J.C.E]

So long as the cables are terminated correctly and safely there is no problem.

I did think was the case

just not too sure about the 10mm>6mm joint. Just tight and no exposed copper- might put a line through this observation.

 

[peteludman]

its the 2.5 flex that worries me i would lower 45a mcb to 32a then take 4mm from the connector blocks to socket then put plug on flex and plug it in then hob is protected to

 

[cprfenom]

its the 2.5 flex that worries me i would lower 45a mcb to 32a then take 4mm from the connector blocks to socket then put plug on flex and plug it in then hob is protected to

You would put a plug on a piece of 2.5mm 3 core flex? Why?

 

[davesparks]

its the 2.5 flex that worries me i would lower 45a mcb to 32a then take 4mm from the connector blocks to socket then put plug on flex and plug it in then hob is protected to

What worries you about the 2.5 flex?

 

[telectrix]

BS1363 plug tops are designed for a max. cable size of 1.5mm. 2.5mm flex ( generally heat resistant tri-rated for cookers ) should be hard-wired into a FCU, D/P switch, or similar compliant device.

 

[davesparks]

BS1363 plug tops are designed for a max. cable size of 1.5mm. 2.5mm flex ( generally heat resistant tri-rated for cookers ) should be hard-wired into a FCU, D/P switch, or similar compliant device.

Duraplug BS1363 plugs are designed for 2.5mm

 

[telectrix]

Duraplug BS1363 plugs are designed for 2.5mm

smartarse. :6:

 

[davesparks]

Someone had to say it

 

[peteludman]

i taught it was said that the hob was supplyed from a 45a breaker(as well as cooker) on a 2.5 flex so the cable wouldnt take a fault so a plug and socket would fuse it down to make it safe or i read it wrong

 

[J.C.E]

i taught it was said that the hob was supplyed from a 45a breaker(as well as cooker) on a 2.5 flex so the cable wouldnt take a fault so a plug and socket would fuse it down to make it safe or i read it wrong

Factory supplied flex on hob
will void warrenty no?

 

[davesparks]

i taught it was said that the hob was supplyed from a 45a breaker(as well as cooker) on a 2.5 flex so the cable wouldnt take a fault so a plug and socket would fuse it down to make it safe or i read it wrong

With an 8KW induction hob connected to it I think that your plug and socket will be far more dangerous! That's going to become a nice hot fire hazard pretty damned quickly!

What fault are you expecting that 2.5 flex to take? Obviously not an overload fault thanks to the nature of the load.