Cookers and grid switch

[BathSparks]

A client wants to put gas hob ign, dishwasher, cooker and fridge freezer into grid switches. The main problem I have at the moment is the Tech Spec on the cooker lists 'Power (w) 40'. Surely this is the inside light bulb!. The cooker is a Zanussi ZYB460X. espares lists the main element at 2Kw and the grill at 1850w. All up that would be 4Kw. This translates into 18 Amps so should be OK on MK 20A with neon

Would this grid switch be regarded as satisfactory isolation? The cooker will be on it's own way in the CU, there will be a separate ring final circuit for all other appliances and sockets in the kitchen. Fusing/plugs etc. has not been decided yet but I am thinking along the lines using appliance plugs to single sockets, supplied from grid switch. They can be sited behind the cabs somewhere.

 

[telectrix]

i'd use a grid switch for appliances except for cooker , which i would put on it's own isolator.

 

[BathSparks]

Hi telectrix I originally suggested this to Prop Dev but he said the lady who is to live there is partially disabled and that it would be much more convenient to have all these switches together in a convenient place. My view is that if a cooker switch is near the cooker, there would be less chance of turning on/off the wrong thing.

 

[telectrix]

convenience doesn't override a safe installation. cooker on it's own circuit IMO. then educate customer .

 

[BathSparks]

convenience doesn't override a safe installation. cooker on it's own circuit IMO. then educate customer .

From my original query 'will be on it's own way in the CU,' So the cooker will be in it's own slot and on it's own circuit.

 

[BathSparks]

convenience doesn't override a safe installation. cooker on it's own circuit IMO. then educate customer .

But you are right in some respects. I am sure a cooker isolator can be mounted somewhere near without worrying too much about style over substance (which maybe where he is coming from)

 

[Engineer54]

espares lists the main element at 2Kw and the grill at 1850w. All up that would be 4KW.

Why would you ADD the grill element to the oven element?? This is an either/or situation as you can't operate both elements at the same time!!

I'll let others here, debate with you about the Grid switches...lol!!!

 

[BathSparks]

Why would you ADD the grill element to the oven element?? This is an either/or situation as you can't operate both elements at the same time!!

I'll let others here, debate with you about the Grid switches...lol!!!

Well if you like mackerel on toast and you just caught them! Just kidding. Your right of course. At the time it seemed the only way to make a stab at the rating of the cooker. I found this info on the German site. turns out to be 2.5Kw. So no problem with that. MK make a cooker grid switch with a neon so could go with that. Mostly you would not want this turned off as the clock/program would have to be reset. I can see the need to be ABLE to turn it off though.

This cooker can be wired into a 13A socket so I will probably take this route but have the socket somewhere off the top/backsplash.

 

[Des 56]

I cant see convenience being impaired by keeping the cooker separate
The cooker isolator would usually not be switched on/off willy nilly so she needn't worry about operating it,otherwise the clock/timer functions would need resetting all the time,that would be even more inconvenient

 

[BathSparks]

I cant see convenience being impaired by keeping the cooker separate
The cooker isolator would usually not be switched on/off willy nilly so she needn't worry about operating it,otherwise the clock/timer functions would need resetting all the time,that would be even more inconvenient

To be ABLE to turn it off is important. In this instance, the lady who will be living there is disabled with arthritis. So where ever the switch is located, she would need to reach it quickly and easily. Suppose she has a chicken in the oven and an arthritis attack comes on quite quickly, apparently this can happen, she would want to turn the oven off, go lie down and come back later. OK the timer and clock would be out when the cooker was switched on again but the chicken would be ok. Some people may never use the clock/timer.
The cooker switch as part of a grid switch arrangement might be the best option if the only other place is in back of a cupboard (I would not do this anyway) or slightly more difficult to reach. than a grid switch out front.

 

[mickys86]

Haven't read too many of the posts. But I have had a 20A oven on its own circuit, a 20A microwave on its own circuit and a ring for other appliances in one grid setup. What's the problem with it? I was just following instructions at the time but I still can't see whats wrong with it.
Please educate me

 

[PC Electrics]

Don't forget the cooker switch needs to be within 2 metres.

 

[Litttle Shonet]

Suppose she has a chicken in the oven and an arthritis attack comes on quite quickly, apparently this can happen, she would want to turn the oven off, go lie down and come back later. OK the timer and clock would be out when the cooker was switched on again but the chicken would be ok.

I bet the chicken would have died of heat stroke by the time she came back

 

[mickys86]

I bet the chicken would have died of heat stroke by the time she came back

Not too sure what the lady would die of if she cooks her chicken in stages.... Haha

 

[sedgy34]

A client wants to put gas hob ign, dishwasher, cooker and fridge freezer into grid switches. The main problem I have at the moment is the Tech Spec on the cooker lists 'Power (w) 40'. Surely this is the inside light bulb!. The cooker is a Zanussi ZYB460X. espares lists the main element at 2Kw and the grill at 1850w. All up that would be 4Kw. This translates into 18 Amps so should be OK on MK 20A with neon

Would this grid switch be regarded as satisfactory isolation? The cooker will be on it's own way in the CU, there will be a separate ring final circuit for all other appliances and sockets in the kitchen. Fusing/plugs etc. has not been decided yet but I am thinking along the lines using appliance plugs to single sockets, supplied from grid switch. They can be sited behind the cabs somewhere.

do what the client wants, but fit a 3g grid on ring and a single next to it cooker on its own radial (then still convenient)