Crimping and plastering over? | on ElectriciansForums

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DNS1

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Asked about this a while back, but read a few things since that have made me wonder if I was doing the right thing...

Got to join 2 pieces of T+E in the middle of a wall for a light switch. The rest of the cabling is plastered over. I'm intending to plaster over the joint too when it's made (currently it's a joint box hanging out a hole in the wall)

I don't want to have to leave it accessible (don't want a box/blanking plate halfway up the wall) so planned to crimp and sleeve, then plaster in.

Was told a while back that this method was compliant, but now I'm not so sure (read a few posts on another forum).

Any tips would be much appreciated. I'm not a pro sparks (obviously!) but intend to be one in few years so want to make sure I get these things right from the beginning.
 
I may be wrong but I doubt it would comply, it's not something I'd be comfortable doing mate. I would either pull a new cable in which would not take that long or if you can get access joint it above the switch drop. New cable is the way forward though
 
As long as the crimping is done properly (with ratchet crimp pliers) and you reinstate the sheath with heatshrink or self amalgamating tape (several layers) then you may bury the joint in plaster.
 
Personally, can't see an issue so long as the whole joint is robust and done properly. You could actually argue that the short lengths of conductor INSIDE the crimps are mechanically more protected than the rest of the cable. Crimp and shrink is an approved MF method, plastering cable is an approved method. So where's the problem?
 
I have on occasion had to use this method.

You need to heatshrink the entire cable afterwards (replacing the sheath), also it is better to stagger your crimps to save a bit of space amongst other reasons.

BTW you can get 'shrinkable' buttsplice crimps, these are covered by heatshrinkable insulation, with a sort of adhesive (which melts) internal to the insulation.
 
Ok I'll admit I'm wrong, it's still not something I'd be comfortable doing. It just seems a bit rough to me.
I know there are the arguments about the customer paying for unnecessary work but what's Mr & Mrs Client going to think if they see that going on?
 
Capping protects the cable from the plasterer's trowel and is not a requirement. So if he is filling the wall himself there is no risk of plasterer's mashing the cable so no need for capping IMO
 
I dont like this.....Has the o/p even checked to see of the cable is in a capping/channel?.....if so then just use the old cable to draw a new one in....or alternatevely.....chase out and install new......the wall`s damaged and will need plastering anyway so whats the point....might as well do it right....or not even start the job at all.......
 
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I'm not suggesting that this is an example of best practice, far from it, but the OP's question was 'is it allowed?'. And the answer is yes, as far as I can see.
 
Agreed Glenn,
I dont like this.....Has the o/p even checked to see of the cable is in a capping/channel?.....if so then just use the old cable to draw a new one in..
and Rock
I'm not suggesting that this is an example of best practice,

I don't like it either, nor is it best practice, I would also seek to replace the run whenever possible, but on occasion where this is not possible (preferrable may be a better term), this method can be used.

If you do use this method, it is better to do it properly though, unlike where on rewires/partial rewires I have seen either live cables or chock blocks just left in the wall (the existing cables to be renewed)
 
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From a customers perspective, it's the difference between a few pence for some bits and half an hour of labour, or half a day of mess and floorboards, replastering and a big bill. When needs must, needs must.
 

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