CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted | on ElectriciansForums

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Dartlec

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Called to look at a job today for a previous client. Tumble Drier giving off 'funny smell' and tripped the RCD - Called out her appliance insurance plan people, who suggested it was the fixed wiring - hence why she wanted me to have a look...

Plug and socket well and truly melted...

[ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted [ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted

Clearly due to over heating or loose connection of some sort from first glance.

However, removing the socket, wiring and terminals behind showing no damage at all: Nor is there any sign of loose connection when retracting the shielding on the live pins...

It's a GET socket, so not the usual cheap and nasty ones where I've seen melting before. All the damage appears to be on the front.

[ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted [ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted

And the cable feeding the socket still flexible with no sign of heat damage. (This is a single circuit 16A MCB)

The plug has a fairly obvious bulge on the top (not quite so clear in the pictures)

[ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted [ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted

as well as the obvious damage around the fuse carrier/live pin...

[ElectriciansForums.net] CSI: Sparks - Drier plug melted

So my view is that the problem was in the moulded plug on the appliance which then caused the socket damage, either due to prolonged over heating, or some fault within it - or the drier is now running above it's rated 2800W and over time has caused the plug to over heat and melt....

The drier is a relatively old AEG, which has been repaired a few times before...

The appliance people wanted to just put a new socket and plug on, but I'm of the view that they should be checking a bit further to see what the fault is before declaring it safe.

Client would like them to write it off and get a new one since she's worried (rightly) about fire risk. I'm going to put a site report together stating that the fixed wiring was not at fault and that the issue was clearly with the appliance and that it should be tested and declared safe by an approved appliance engineer before being reused...

I PAT tested the appliance, and it passed, at least under the new code, with a 0.93 mA leakage but IR fine and earth loop still intact...

Anyone like to add their experience or wisdom?

Cable to the appliance still seemed fine with no heat damage. If I was reconnecting this myself, I'd be tempted to run it from an appliance outlet plate since it's on a 16A MCB, but the drier does state requirements for 13A fuse (although in this case it doesn't appear to have gone)

Drier was under a worktop if that matters - Circuit is a single radial from 16A MCB to an outlet plate, where 1.5mm flex feeds the single socket shown...
 

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I hate sealed plugs like that, no way of inspecting them apart from what you can see on the outside! I've seen a few like that, usually found it to be the holders for the fuse are weak and don't hold it properly causing it to get very warm!
Had one I cut in half with the bandsaw and found it was the actual connection from the live pin to the fuse holder at fault.
Also had one on a Bosch dishwasher that had been so tight behind it that it had managed to melt itself into the insulation in the back of the dishwasher and the socket, as I pulled the appliance out the plug stayed attached to the insulation and left the live pin in the socket!
 
So my view is that the problem was in the moulded plug on the appliance which then caused the socket damage, either due to prolonged over heating, or some fault within it - or the drier is now running above it's rated 2800W and over time has caused the plug to over heat and melt....
Agree. I wonder if putting a new plug on and running the drier with a clamp meter at the MCB would give some reassurance about the drier itself.
 
What’s the skinny white flex poking out the bottom of the socket in pic #1
That's the feed to the socket - only 1.5mm running from the original socket point which is now to the right behind the unit...

16A radial so no real issue with it electrically, and no sign of heat damage to it...
 
That looks like some kind of liquid damage you can see in running down the wall. The plug would have appeared to "pool" this liquid between its face and the socket outlet which has caused arcing and overheating.
I see what you mean - though I think that's just a crack in the wall and the angle of picture makes it appear to line up.... There's a sink to the right of it, but worktop is properly sealed so not sure it's water damage...
 
@westward10
You can see something down the wall but I would expect to see it on the top part of the socket face as well if that was the cause?
To me the plug top and socket face indicate a pooling of liquid between them. It could have dripped to to top of the plug then down the wall. It just doesn't look like a sole electrical failure.
 
I see what you mean - though I think that's just a crack in the wall and the angle of picture makes it appear to line up.... There's a sink to the right of it, but worktop is properly sealed so not sure it's water damage...
Yes I can also see it could be an optical illusion but I still believe that is a liquid ingression issue.
 
I do agree that it does look like something has pooled between the plug and socket but I think it is more thermal damage that has caused it than a liquid as @Dartlec says the worktop is well sealed. There doesn't seem to be any residue on the bottom of the socket or flex either as you would expect with spilt liquid.
 

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