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W

woz

I'm having a new kitchen fitted with a bosch 7.2KW induction hob and bosch 3.45KW oven. Electrician 1 has decommissioned the old 6mm cable from the consumer unit and replaced it with a 10mm cable connected to the old 32a fuse on the RCD side of the consumer unit. From the 10mm cable he's put a 45a switch for the hob and proposed looping through another 45a switch for the oven. He says if the 32a fuse is found to be too low he'll replace it with a 45a one.

Electrician 2 says this is not safe. He says the 3.45KW oven is a 16a appliance an should be protected by a 16 or 20a fuse not 32a. He proposes putting a second small consumer unit on the end of the 10mm cable in a cupboard feeding just the oven with a 16 or 20a fuse inside. I don't want this, taking up valuable cupboard space. Another option would be to recommission the 6mm cable and connect it to a 16/20a fuse in the main consumer unit with RCD protection.

Who's right?? The kitchen fitter is returning tomorrow to remove the cupboard units to get to the plastered in 6mm cable and chase the walls for electrician 2 to fit a switch above the cupboard unless someone tells me the work done by electrician 1 is fine!

Thanks in advance.
 
Electrician 2 said the cable that comes with the oven (the one with the kettle lead type of female plug) will burn before the 32a MCB goes if current is overloaded. Which is why he says a 16 or 20a MCB is necessary to protect the oven cable.

The load on the oven flex can't increase other than be short circuit.
In that case the 32amp mcb will trip as as fast as the fault comes on.

.
 
This is all good stuff. Looks like I won't be needing the top cupboard units removing and the walls rechasing tomorrow to recommission the old 6mm cable in order to stick it on a 20a mcb feeding the oven (the cable was cut half way up the wall and plastered over).

Can someone recommend a decent dual cooker outlet please?
 
This is all good stuff. Looks like I won't be needing the top cupboard units removing and the walls rechasing tomorrow to recommission the old 6mm cable in order to stick it on a 20a mcb feeding the oven (the cable was cut half way up the wall and plastered over).

Can someone recommend a decent dual cooker outlet please?

see post #17. this is fed from a single 45A switch/isolator (accessible ) and both appliances are fed from the connection unit.
 
Would the same be true for a 40a mcb?
yes, as long as the 40A rating is below the current capacity of the cable calculated from BS7671 dependent on the method of installation, as in my previous post/s.
 
Come on you lot, you're being done, usual DIY thing which way todo this best. Viewing this from my mobile, but looks like the tell me in so many steps how to do this...... Come on!
 
Last edited:
Come on you lot, you're being done, usual DIY thing which way todo this best. Viewing this from my mobile, but looks like the tell me in so many steps how to do this...... Come on!

I'm certainly not doing it myself. If I was doing it myself I'd have to inform the local authority and get them to sign it off afterwards. I don't have the time or inclination and frankly feel insulted that you're suggesting I'm lying.

I don't mind buying the parts and giving them to the electrician to use. Electrician 1 told me if he procures the parts he puts a mark up on them hence me supplying the sockets, switches and fused spurs. In the case of asking what dual connection unit is best, I'll buy it and give it to the electrician to install.

I basically needed advice which electrician is right as I'm pretty much a layman caught in the middle of two conflicting opinions, and was about to authorise my newly installed kitchen to be disassembled and walls rechased!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm certainly not doing it myself. If I was doing it myself I'd have to inform the local authority and get them to sign it off afterwards. I don't have the time or inclination and frankly feel insulted that you're suggesting I'm lying.

I don't mind buying the parts and giving them to the electrician to use. Electrician 1 told me if he procures the parts he puts a mark up on them hence me supplying the sockets, switches and fused spurs. In the case of asking what dual connection unit is best, I'll buy it and give it to the electrician to install.

I basically needed advice which electrician is right as I'm pretty much a layman caught in the middle of two conflicting opinions, and was about to authorise my newly installed kitchen to be disassembled and walls rechased!
I do think Sir protests too much , Gould I feel a ban coming!
 
No more shall be said of it. Thank you everyone for the advice. It's been extremely valuable.
just bear in mind that the electrician puts a mark up ( usually about 20% ) for a reason. he needs to go and fetch from wholesaler, taking up his time and vehicle costs , and also he will guarantee the parts fitted if he supplies them. if you buy them and they fail for any reason, you can't complain if he charges you parts and labour to replace theem
 
Judging by his previous post in 2012, he does like to have a bit of a go himself....taking a CU cover off and checking all connections....??
 
Judging by his previous post in 2012, he does like to have a bit of a go himself....taking a CU cover off and checking all connections....??

True, I changed the RCD a few years ago in the CU. However I recognise my limits. When I needed a new circuit putting into the kitchen for a switch from a gas to electric hob, new appliance spur sockets for dishwasher, washing machine and fridge and some additional new sockets adding I called in a professional who could give me a part P certificate after the job was complete for when I come to sell the house and for piece of mind. Hence getting in electrician 1.

Do all new members or first time posters have their integrity questioned on here? The internet is a strange place where things that people wouldn't say to people's faces are freely typed.
 

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