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R

r10ley

Hi just hoping you can clear something up for me : )

Just playing with a DOL contactor and overload and wiring up the control circuit for it. Looking at the attached picture am I right in thinking 96/95 should be a NC contact and be in series with the remote stop as a switch to break the circuit if overload conditions occur? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? I ask this because its not working as I thought it would. If I bring my 240V supply in on terminal L1 then take this threw contact 96/95 and then to terminal A1 with my neutral coming straight from supply to terminal A2 it blows the fuse in the plug.
Any advise would be great
Thanks r10ley
[ElectriciansForums.net] DOL Problem!
 
It's defo a 230 coil because if I hook up the 230 directly across A1 and A2 it pulls in no problem. The terminal 95 has a link threw to A2 which would make sense. I'm guessing there's a fault somewhere along the line : / it also blows if I take the supply into L1 and come out there and go into 96 without a neutral even hooked up : / strange eh!

Thanks r10ley
 
Hi, I understand what your saying however it blows even without my neutral hooked up, also the unit came with a link in between 96 and A2 which I cant understand : /

Thanks r10ley
 
Agree with jpmiff i suspect the overload circuit has integral link to A2 meaning you will need to put neutral to A1 if you are linking L1 to overload N/C as putting neutral to A2 will short out the supply, its possible this contactor comes out of a enclosure with start stop buttons on the front that operate the red stop and the grey start if im not mistaken (hard to tell) the links will then be integral and the link you mention may be a retaining link so the contactor dosnt drop back out when you let go of the start button, but although contactors and overloads all work and are wired roughly the same it depends on the model and make as to whether they provide integral links or you need to fit yourself. I suggest dropping the overload off and learn how its connected together by doing a diagram this should make it easy to follow.
And dont worry in a couple of years this will be second nature to you they just seem complicated at first but they aren't.
Looking again the grey tab is more likely to be a naming tag so ignore the start button suggestion.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi all thanks for your input. Ive set it up as shown in the picture (ignore the wire colors I know there wrong : P) I have taken the live into L1 then threw 96/95 then into A2 via the link and taken the neutral striaght into A1 and its working

The only thing is i presume the push button on the front of the contactor should break the circuit when it is pressed however it isnt. When I bell the contact out it doesnt break guess its duff : /

Thanks for your help all!

r10ley

[ElectriciansForums.net] DOL Problem!
 
Hi all thanks for your input. Ive set it up as shown in the picture (ignore the wire colors I know there wrong : P) I have taken the live into L1 then threw 96/95 then into A2 via the link and taken the neutral striaght into A1 and its working

The only thing is i presume the push button on the front of the contactor should break the circuit when it is pressed however it isnt. When I bell the contact out it doesnt break guess its duff : /

Thanks for your help all!

r10ley

View attachment 2851

You could have put live straight into 96 as you are just testing its functional and not running anything through the contactor itself, and it will be duff as you have just run several short circuits through the n/c contact which could have seen currents upto and above 1000amps for a fraction of a second but enough time to weld it permenantly closed.
 
Yeah I agree too lol. I was playing with it in nightshift so I suppose that can excuse a little bit of the dafeness I have demonstrated, but thanks for your help all!

r10ley
 

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