Downligher Questions

[J.C.E]

Just a few downlighter queries...

Question1
What are the reasons for using either a mains downlighter, or a 12v with a transformer?
Is it just the fact the 12v is more efficient becuase its lower voltage and also more safe for the same reason? If this is the case, whats the point of mains downlighters?

Question2
What is the most common way of wiring them nowadays? t+e from c/u to 4way junction box, the t&e into 12v transformer (which is already connected to the downlighter itself right?) then take your switch drop t&e from the junction box too?

Or is there a more prefered way?

Cheers for your advise.

 

[SirKit Breaker]

I never fit 12v downlights unless there is no other alternative. 240v fire rated evreytime, and IP65 if required. Less work involved, and no dead trannys in a few months time.

I usually install from the existing lighting point and wire them parallel from there. If i install from new rather than an exisiting circuit i take the loop to the switch, and then run the cable out to the lights from it.

Cheers.......Howard

 

[J.C.E]

I never fit 12v downlights unless there is no other alternative. 240v fire rated evreytime, and IP65 if required. Less work involved, and no dead trannys in a few months time.

I usually install from the existing lighting point and wire them parallel from there. If i install from new rather than an exisiting circuit i take the loop to the switch, and then run the cable out to the lights from it.

Cheers.......Howard

Sorry for the blonde moment dont flame me!

I no parallel is having each light across the voltage, and series is like all in a chain, but I really cant get my head around how I would rung the t&e to wiring it in parallel

 

[Ponty Massive]

I think what Howard mean's is run a L&N to the switch, N in a block then back out SW/L and N to every down lighter.

 

[D Skelton]

I no parallel is having each light across the voltage, and series is like all in a chain, but I really cant get my head around how I would rung the t&e to wiring it in parallel

Well if you think of one long straight length of T&E as two cables, the brown and the blue, there is a potential difference (voltage) along the entire length of those two (side by side) cables. All each downlighter is doing is bridging a gap between the two cables thus making use of that potential difference. It's easy if you think of each downlight as a little bridge between brown and blue.

 

[Octopus]

GU10's every time. Especially as LED bulbs to fit into GU10's are getting better and cheaper so giving the customer more flexibility over time!

 

[sparks1234]

I never fit 12v downlights unless there is no other alternative. 240v fire rated evreytime, and IP65 if required. Less work involved, and no dead trannys in a few months time.

I usually install from the existing lighting point and wire them parallel from there. If i install from new rather than an exisiting circuit i take the loop to the switch, and then run the cable out to the lights from it.

Cheers.......Howard

Oh no, that would mean a connector block in the switch, dont tell anyone though

the 12 volt fittings were available before the GU10 versions and were the popular choice, when the GU10 came out the quality of light being produced was nowhere near as white as the low voltage, it is getting better but still not as good, I dont know the reason they arent as good though

 

[Mr Mike]

Oh no, that would mean a connector block in the switch, dont tell anyone though

Stop it now......lol