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Discuss Drilled through cable in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

M

martysparky

Called to sort out a DIY botch.


DIYer drilled through cable feeding a socket in the kitchen and just missed the cooker cable that was running next to it.


They had recently had the kitchen fitted and it seems that the cooker ouitlet and socket cables had been re routed behind the plaster.

A cooker hood was fitted by whoever done the kitchen and was plugged into the socket that was relocated inside the cooker hood.

I am concerned about the moisture inside the hood, obviously, and am going to relocate the outlet as a S/F/C/U outside of the hood.

Could you, suggest the best way to remedy the joining of cable without having to rip the kitchen apart to replace cable.

I have used a chocblock and Tape as a initial solve. Any suggestions of how to seal the joint so that it will be maintenance free and water tight to re-plaster.

Suggestions will be much appreciated.
THANKS
 
Last edited by a moderator:
There is no satisfactory way of joining and plastering in the wall unfortunately. The only real options are to replace the cable or install a flush box and blank plate to enclose the joint. Is the extractor socket in behind the 'chimney' section of one of those stainless jobs? If so and the fan is ducted out there is no danger of moisture.
 
If you use the push connectors like wago etc in a choc box or similar then surely that removes the need for access allowing it to be plastered.

Something like these ?
 
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A matter of opinion...some have suggested that crimps are ok to plaster in, personally I think there are only two satisfactory ways...replace or blank plate. That's just my opinion,others may differ, and what constitutes a permanant joint and needent be accessible is a bit of a grey area.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A matter of opinion...some have suggested that crimps are ok to plaster in, personally I think there are only two satisfactory ways...replace or blank plate. That's just my opinion,others may differ, and what constitutes a permanant joint and needent be accessible is a bit of a grey area.

I agree with you on this one wirepuller but unfortunatley the regs do allow a crimped joint to be plastered over this would be the easy solution to the problem.
 
Hey flukey, or anyone else, sorry to butt in, but just a question - I generally avoid crimping, as I feel like I could never really be certain that the insulation would remain watertight, the IR would not be compromised by using what is in effect a thinner layer of insulation, and whether the through crimps would meet the current carrying capacity of the cable. In the past I have used two layers of heat-shrink - one around each live conductor then a larger length around the whole joint. Any idea where I'd look up a standard for which size crimp and heatshrink to use with each cable size??

(marty, hope you don't mind the slight thread-drift, but it is related to your initial question!!)
 
Hey flukey, or anyone else, sorry to butt in, but just a question - I generally avoid crimping, as I feel like I could never really be certain that the insulation would remain watertight, the IR would not be compromised by using what is in effect a thinner layer of insulation, and whether the through crimps would meet the current carrying capacity of the cable. In the past I have used two layers of heat-shrink - one around each live conductor then a larger length around the whole joint. Any idea where I'd look up a standard for which size crimp and heatshrink to use with each cable size??

(marty, hope you don't mind the slight thread-drift, but it is related to your initial question!!)


No probs all good stuff thanks for the input:D
 

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