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Robsi1

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Hi.

I am fitting an electric towel rail in Zone 2 - it is IP55 rated so fine there.
The flex coming out of it I have a few options - There is currently a cable going from the consumer unit into the bathroom making its own circuit (used to be for boiler but not used now)
I have a couple of options -

1) Connect the flex directly up to a cable that goes into the consumer unit - I would connect the flex cable from the radiator to the mains cable under the floor with one of these - IP68 Waterproof 3 Pole Plug and Socket Cable Connector 32A 450Vac - https://sinolec.co.uk/en/rewirable-socket-plugs/1211474--ip68-waterproof-3-pole-plug-and-socket-cable-connector-32a-450vac.html?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=ExportPrestashop&gclid=CjwKCAjwuITNBRBFEiwA9N9YEP9bPrVuya3vwK2DIKnnw0-1q6WzjR2X46r3DE7HDyLt62qeBv9GDxoCWvYQAvD_BwE

2) Connect the flex to an (unfused) Connection unit on the wall next to the radiator and then connect the other end to this cable that goes directly to the consumer unit (no switch/fuse between the 2 - other than the fuse in the fuse board)

3) (my least prefered option) - Connect the radiator to a (unfused) Connection unit next to the radiator then run a cable to a fused connection unit outside of bathroom and then onto the consumer unit


Is option 1 or 2 possible i.e. a connection without a fused switch on the wall somewhere?
 
Any electrical work within the zones of a bathroom is legally notifiable to building control. Appropriate testing and certification should also be carried out for this alteration.
Any accessories installed in zone 2 should be at least IP44.
Any cable joints/connections should be accessible for inspection and maintenance unless they are joined in a maintenance free fashion as described in the wiring regulations.
The manufacturer's instructions for the radiator may require a fuse to protect the cable supplying the appliance so the unfused idea may not be an option.
 
Does the element have a timer built in to it? If not, you may want to consider adding a timer as you likely won't want the towel rail running 24/7. Something like this located in a suitable position would provide local isolation, a fuse and timer:


You will need access to the connections to the heating element to replace it should it ever fail so a suitable connection unit on the wall would make sense.

As others have said:

This is notifiable work. There are lots of things to consider when doing electrical work in a bathroom so you really need to know what you are doing and have the appropriate test gear. It does sound like you might be best off getting an electrician in for this job.
 
Smallest breaker/fuse/mcb/rcbo you’ll get will be 6a ish and I’d expect the radiator will need fusing down further so you’ll need a sfcu....as others have said legally notifiable...


Wrong

[automerge]1574805471[/automerge]
@Baddegg what do you dislike about the above post as it is factual unlike your previous post!!
 
Last edited:
Wrong

I can only apologise profusely for my lack of knowledge on this matter @bigspark17....please forgive me I will now go and self flagellate myself and won’t let this abhorrent slip happen again....if that fella happens to have a schieder consumer I don’t think I’ll ever get over this ?
I know I was wrong but showing me twice is just rubbing salt in the wound mate...
 
Last edited:

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