electrical window wiring/control

[J.C.E]

Doing a rewire of a kitchen where the exisiting electric windows are remaining

The previous controller/connections was cut out and thrown away with the builders demo!

Never really had to connect up a electric window before- I have extended the 2x 2core cables the go to the 2 windows- with a 5core into a cupboard that I can get power from via a 13a spur to fuse down...

But what gear do I need and what are the connections to power these windows again and control them
The client is happy with a standard switch- or the lighting is controlled by Lutron RA2- so if I could control it by this too that would be a nice touch

see photos of cables coming from 2x windows attached..

 

[bigspark17]

How were they previously switched? I would expect to see a 2way retractive switch for open and close or some form of remote control.

 

[SJD]

If you've not already done so, check if the actuators are 230V or 12/24V. Some models come in both a 230V and a lower voltage variant. You wouldn't want to get this wrong!

 

[J.C.E]

If you've not already done so, check if the actuators are 230V or 12/24V. Some models come in both a 230V and a lower voltage variant. You wouldn't want to get this wrong!

Im assuming they are 12/24v as the only cables that go up to the 2x windows are 2x 2core cables

so do i need to take a 6a 230v feed into a 230-12v transformer then the positive 12v into C of a 2way retractive switch then both of the reds into l1 and both of the whites in l2 but then how is the window actuator getting a N/negative 12v??
[automerge]1587068579[/automerge]

How were they previously switched? I would expect to see a 2way retractive switch for open and close or some form of remote control.

I remember seeing some type of bulking box (tranny possible) but this got cut out and thrown by builders!!

 

[freddo]

If they are DC swapping the polarity will open/close the motors. There is no point in guessing though, the first thing you need to do (after punching the builders) is get the details off of the window motors.

 

[AJshep]

You need the details off the window motor. If they are 24v DC, You can check the window motor functions properly with a 18v Drill battery.

 

[J.C.E]

The actuators work with a 12v driver

when 12v polarity is correct (+ of driver to + to windows they open)
Then the windows close when i reverse polarity (+of driver to - to windows)

is there a user friendly switch or remote/receiver setup i can use to do this reverse polarity switching for the windows to be open and closed by the client

 

[Mike Johnson]

Need to investigate where the limit switches are and how they are wired.

 

[freddo]

If there is only 2 wires to each motor the limit switches will be built in.

 

[J.C.E]

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One of these work?
[automerge]1587126962[/automerge]

[automerge]1587126971[/automerge]

 

[freddo]

It would, but there must be some more decorative options out there!
[automerge]1587132024[/automerge]
Here's one in a wall plate, obviously the wiring connections will be different to the diagram on that page.

 

[J.C.E]

It would, but there must be some more decorative options out there!
[automerge]1587132024[/automerge]
Here's one in a wall plate, obviously the wiring connections will be different to the diagram on that page.

dont think that will work in my situation??

that switch says 100-230v? i am trying to switch 12v

also your switch looks like it needs 3core going to window (O,C,N)
I do no have this- i just have a +&- from window 1 to a cupboard I have 230v in and same for a 2nd window

So after a 230v to 12v driver- i need a 3 position switch
(1)open circuit
(2)close circuit correct polarity (12v)
(3)close circuit reverse polarity(12v)

think I am just going to try the one i posted from eBay and try fit it in a euro module plate

 

[telectrix]

you can get a12V 0n-off-on switch from a car accessory shop. may not be retractive though, so you'll need to physically return to centre off position.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Old type electric window switch's used to be momentary? i.e. up down and self centred.

 

[freddo]

dont think that will work in my situation??

that switch says 100-230v? i am trying to switch 12v

The switch wont care what voltage is going through it the one linked uses the same switch module as the one you linked!

also your switch looks like it needs 3core going to window (O,C,N)
I do no have this- i just have a +&- from window 1 to a cupboard I have 230v in and same for a 2nd window

I know that's why I said to ignore the diagram and wire the connections to suit your wiring.