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gdrms

Three questions I'm afraid. Although Ihaven't encountered it yet, I feel certain I will come across a cable, IEC or instance, which will have an enclosed connector block to extend it. My understanding of the regs is that it will be a fail as it should have no connection. If I have to explain this away is the logic that the connector could be (later) connected to an untested, perhaps even a twin, cable rendering it unsafe?

Secondly, should a fail constitute a charge if not rectified? Presumably if it is fixed, eg flex is cut back and a new plug connected it would be done for free as would the subsequent re test, or is it down to one's own judgement? Time is money after all.

Lastly, when testing a mains fed charger for say a workshop drill, seeing as the IEC lead enters the charger am I correct in saying the charger needs to be tested and stickered constituting another charge?
 
Three questions I'm afraid. Although Ihaven't encountered it yet, I feel certain I will come across a cable, IEC or instance, which will have an enclosed connector block to extend it. My understanding of the regs is that it will be a fail as it should have no connection. If I have to explain this away is the logic that the connector could be (later) connected to an untested, perhaps even a twin, cable rendering it unsafe?

If the correct connector is used that has a cable clamp and voltage and current rating for the appliance then there is not a problem , a 2 core cable could be used on any extension lead and when the test has been carried out then each section should be identified with the same number so if the lead is seperated then you know its a pair

Secondly, should a fail constitute a charge if not rectified? Presumably if it is fixed, eg flex is cut back and a new plug connected it would be done for free as would the subsequent re test, or is it down to one's own judgement? Time is money after all.

Yes it would as time is money

Lastly, when testing a mains fed charger for say a workshop drill, seeing as the IEC lead enters the charger am I correct in saying the charger needs to be tested and stickered constituting another charge?

lead and charger do need to be tested seperatly as IEC leads chan be moved from one appliance to another
 
Thanks, I wish clients paid up as quickly as I get answers on this forum. By the way I've come across a small water heater simply with a 13A plug on. Is this correct? I've seen it before long before I started pat testing. Should it not be on a fused spur? I might add the plug is in another area not in the same room if it makes a difference.
 
Depends on the csa of the flex, if it can take 13A, then a plugtop is fine. It is sometimes more for convenience that a FSU is used instead, because it doesn't use up a socket that could be used for something else, and the heater is less likely to be turned off inadvertently. But basically there is nothing wrong with a heater being on a plugtop.
 
Should a fail constitute a charge if not rectified? Presumably if it is fixed, eg flex is cut back and a new plug connected it would be done for free as would the subsequent re test, or is it down to one's own judgement? Time is money after all.

As you say its really down to you what you charge for, taking into account what the competition in your area offers.


Myself if its pass or fail you have tested it so its chargeable and the free minor repair and free retest is only applicable if it can be repaired and retested there and then.

The problem with Appliance Testing nowadays is its become a very cut throat business with the professional cowboy’s (The happy slapper sticker brigade) undercutting those doing a proper job
 
Check Reg 554.3 page 143, some water heaters must only be supplied via a double pole linked switch and not supplied by a plug and socket
 
I don't have a copy of the regs. Which ones need it and which don't? This heater is completely encased in plastic. I can only get an earth bond via the plumbing connections along the top, which is the most essential part I imagine and it's a good reading at 0.04Mohms. My one concern is that the water heater sits level, if not lower, than the top of the sink although the chances of it getting soaked are remote. In any case, as I understand it, that is really the domain of the periodic inspection chap.
 
If you are unsure about the safety of an item because of its location relative to other parts of the installation/building then always make a point of bringing it to the attention of the responsible person at the customer's. Part of the visual test is ascertaining if the equipment is in a suitable environment. You can fail an appliance if it checks out ok electrically, but it is in the wrong environment, and this includes being in relatively safe surroundings but in a potentially dangerous place.
 
I understand what you say. I have already told the business owner of my concerns and that I wasn't sure it didn't need a fused spur. It's my understanding from other comments on my thread that it should be ok and I've passed that info on. In my own mind I'm satisfied it's safe but I'm not qualified to pass judgement on the appliances location. It was installed originally by an elctrician - qualified, who knows? I intend to note it on my report so he is aware. Many thanks to all of you.
 
It doesn't matter how well qualified the electrician was who installed it. You are the one doing the testing right now, and if in your opinion it is wrongly connected or in the wrong location, then don't be cowed by a better qualified installer - if it's wrong, it's wrong, and should be failed. When doing testing you sometimes have to make unpopular decisions. If you are relatively inexperienced, do not let that show. Stick to your guns, and show some professionalism. Make your decision, be sure in your mind that it is the correct decision, and make your presence felt.
 
Good reply - thanks. It's not that I'm cowed by the fact it was installed by a qualified installer or that I'm inexperienced. My electrical background previously was in telecommunications so my knowledge of installation regs, even after the pat course, does not cover where it should be installed. I am absolutely certain however of it's electrical safety.
 

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