Extension exposed floor joists and safe zones

[midgetman]

Hi extension kitchen with exposed beams. Walls to be dot and dabbed. Requested not to drill joists. in theory the bottom of exposed joists would be where plasterboard goes. So the 150 mm safe zone can be taken from the bottom of the joists? If so the cables can be run in oval against wall just below joists and drop down to sockets? I think so? Maybe im wrong lol.

 

[Simlec]

You are correct, also 150mm in corners and confines of your KO boxes. Crack on

 

[Simlec]

Just don't forget to tell kitchen fitters.
As there may be a fixing bracket for the extractor fan hood which is normal fixed where your safe zone is. If its a wall mounted unit.

 

[amckay]

Can't see why not? Confirm with plasters just to be safe.

 

[7029 dave]

Talk about making harder for you, what is the issue with drilling joists.?

 

[Simlec]

I would say they are going to be on show!

 

[7029 dave]

I would say they are going to be on show!

Yes, if they are on show nothing special about them. lol

 

[telectrix]

if they are left on show, then you've lost your 150mm safe zone.

 

[midgetman]

They are to be on show. They are oak joists. In theory plasterboard would have been attached to them but in this case it will be recessed. This is why I said would safe zone be from bottom of joist?

So safe zone has to to be measured from recess of plasterboard?

Ffs lol

 

[telectrix]

safe zone is measured from ceiling. tell 'em you'll use mini trunking.:6:

 

[midgetman]

Yes why not haha

 

[Simlec]

safe zone is measured from ceiling. tell 'em you'll use mini trunking.:6:

But you will be measuring from the floor lol

 

[telectrix]

looks like you'll have to drop cables in the safe zones in the corners, then horizontal to the accessories.

 

[midgetman]

safe zone is measured from ceiling

agree - the joists are part of the ceiling - there called ceiling joists ?!?! Or are these exposed beams?
As you said probably run down corners and then across ... cheers

 

[davesparks]

This is where you have to have a sensible discussion with the architect and client, with a bit of practice you will learn to steer them in the direction of making a sensible alteration to the plan.

I have been faced with near enough the same problem with exposed beams in the past, I have used two different solutions to it in different cases.

1 - have the infills between the joist battened down to create a small void above and notch the joists. steel plates can then be fitted over the notches to protect the cables.

2 - have a boxing made of the same wood and height as the main beam which fits against the wall covering the ends of the joists and looks like another beam sitting on top of the wall and holding the ends of the joists. This 'false beam' will look like part of the structure and give you a nice void to hide your cables in.
To encourge architects and clients the phrase 'this would add to the aesthetic' can be quite useful!