Extractor fan with timer

[Daniel1]

Hello everyone,

Just hoping to check to see if this has been done correctly. Had a bathroom fitted and had an extractor fan put in by the bathroom fitter (I assume he did not use an electrician for this part). The fan I got was one with a timer. We discussed it being on for 30 min after. I asked how it would run and he said off the lightswitch which is fine.

As mentioned this is the bathroom's first extractor fan, so the wiring is all new, and the bathroom is now complete (but he is coming back to fix some issues soon).

I noticed that when the lightswitch goes off, the fan also goes off, so the timer function has not actually been activated. I have no fan isolator / fan switch anywhere either, from what I can see.

My questions are:

1. Assuming we leave it as it is, ie with no timer function and it just goes on and off together with the lightswitch and nothing else, is it safe/up to correct standards that no fan isolator switch was installed (either in our outside of the bathroom)?

2. If we were to ask him to 'activate' the timer function which would require a permanent live connection and definitely the fan isolator switch, is this possible to do without undoing all the tiling and everything else? Is it a simple enough job? (Obviously I know a switch would have to be placed somewhere, but other than that I mean.)

Thank you!

 

[WallaceP]

Could be as simple as swapping 2 wires around. Hard to say without seeing it. If it is only wired with. Switch live and neutral there is not much you could do except maybe search the switch connection for a perm live and get a humidistat fan to control when it should turn off. I hope it’s a simple repair for you

 

[Spoon]

Welcome to the forum mate.
Usually bathroom fans need an isolator for maintenance.
Usually a timer fan needs a permanent live, switch live & neutral to work.

What fan make/model do you have?

 

[Daniel1]

Thank you both!

It's a VENT-AXIA VASF100T.

So even if he did it the way with the full intention of not using the timer feature, it should still have an isolator switch?

If I open the light switch cover outside the bathroom would this reveal anything as to how easy this would be to change or would it be further into the new bathroom? Obviously it's all newly tiled etc.

Thanks again!

 

[westward10]

It is definitely a timer fan so it is either connected incorrectly or they have not put in a cable to enable the timer mode. Can you post a pic of the fan connections. Isolate the power first.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes. Picture of the fan connections and also of where he has connected the other end of the cable.

PS you will need the timer function. Without it you run the risk of steam not being cleared = mould build up. Also last night’s curry gas needs a bit of extended fan action.

 

[Kidsolo]

even thou the fan will work fine the way it is connected, you paid him to fit a timer fan. whether the job is easy or hard shouldn't come in to it.
Get him back to install the timer.

 

[Daniel1]

Here's two pictures to show how he's done it. Any thoughts?

Also wondering about that live wire that seems to be sticking out of its casing in the top right?

Thanks again!

 

[Taylortwocities]

I did ask for

Yes. Picture of the fan connections and ALSO of where he has connected the other end of the cable.

So, a picture please. But immediate reaction is for you to get a proper electrician to sort this out.
The sticking up wire is the earth connection. Why did he cut it so short?
Also, it looks like you only have a two core and earth cable there. For a timer fan you need 3-core and earth. So a new cable will ge needed.
Finally, what he has done is downright dangerous. That bare wire on the terminal block links the switched live to the live connections. That needs to be insulated/sleeved. It has 230volts on it.
Put the cover back and get someone in who know what they are doing.

PS hope you haven’t paid him/her. There’s done retiling to do after they et lectures have been sorted.

 

[telectrix]

my post said the same, but it's disappeared.

 

[Daniel1]

Here is the opposite end, where the light switch is.

As mentioned there is no other switch (isolator switch) and the hatch in the ceiling is gone (he lowered the ceiling and plastered a new ceiling). So not sure there's any real way to access the wiring behind that wall, at all.

As a side note, can the isolator switch go inside a bathroom or does it have to be outside? We'd like to avoid a new switch outside as the paint for that wall has been discontinued and I wouldn't want to risk damage to it, if at all possible/safe.

Thanks again!

 

[Andy78]

What TTC said
They have not run the correct cable because they don't know what they are doing by the looks of things. They have left uninsulated live parts in the fan which is dangerous. You should get someone competent in to fix that and get the original installer to foot the bill.

You don't strictly need a fan isolator, but if you do have one it should be located in the control of the person working on the isolated fan, in the same room, or be able to be locked off.

 

[Daniel1]

I assume if we get him to somehow redo this to both make it safe as well as fun the timer, an isolator is then needed?

The fan is on the wall opposite to the wall with the switch in the hallway and I assume the wires are running through the ceiling, is he effectively going to have to cut a new hatch and then repair to get to the wires, or break tiles?

 

[telectrix]

you have a dangerous bodge. it must be rectified. if holes need to be cut, then the cretin that installed that fan must be made to pay for the fix and repair to any damage, no matter what cost. and i'd not trust him to do any electrical work whatsoever. he obviously hasn't got a clue.

 

[telectrix]

I assume if we get him to somehow redo this to both make it safe as well as fun the timer, an isolator is then needed?

The fan is on the wall opposite to the wall with the switch in the hallway and I assume the wires are running through the ceiling, is he effectively going to have to cut a new hatch and then repair to get to the wires, or break tiles?

yes. i think an isolator is the least of your worries.