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Did my first consumer unit change yesterday.
A few dodgy things with the old board as I’m sure most will see.

Owner wanted bringing up to date with individual circuit RCD protection and surge protection.

So fitted a Fusebox 10 way RCBO board. Complete with surge protection.

Also removed the bell transformer that was being fed from a hole directly in the side of the CU and put the cooker cable into some conduit as the owner didn’t want it chasing in. I didn’t think it wise to leave it draping over the top of the CU like it was previously!

Any feedback is welcome as I’m always happy to learn from the more experienced amongst the forum.

Only thing I couldn’t seem to rectify is the slight leaning of the RCBOs/Main switch. No matter what I did as soon as I torqued everything up on the busbar it moved slightly.

One of the RCBO was a tad close on testing as you can see on the pic. But a pass is a pass and I tested that both at the board and at a socket (was on a Ring Final).

Anyhoo here are some pics.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
[ElectriciansForums.net] First consumer unit change.
 
Very tidy job - well done. BTW looking at first photo of new board did you originally have it too close to the ceiling to get the cover on ;-) Most of us have similar at some point!

I have a Fusebox board sitting here - I'm fitting one tomorrow for the first time.
I'm impressed with it so far. The cover has screw catchers, the knock outs actually knock out, and it feels very solid. It's also a nice size to replace a 6 module rewireable Wylex if space is limited.
 
The MEM add on RCD pods, MR30s don't like being tested at the board. They refuse to trip when tested. Apart from these, I always test RCDs at the board, preferably with no load connected.
But I also like to do a test at the other end of the circuit for good measure.
 
It's an interesting point, testing the RCD to ensure it operates is one thing, but in reality it must be tested with the circuit intact to ensure it does its job from the other end, discuss, perhaps we ought to take this to the Arms?
 
Dare I ask how you managed to fit the new tails, Isolator already there???
i have 2 alternatives.dependent on the condition of the dNO fuse assembly, and presence of seals.

1.Pull fuse . Still need to cut seals on meter or fit Henlys. .
2. Cut meter seals. ensure no load on installation. remove tails from meter (live). This negates the need to touch the DNO fuse. Safer IMHO. it's how we done it back in the 15th. then a tongue in cheek call to the supplier, say i notice your meter seals are missing.or fit non-standard seals courtesy of ebay.

had one t'other week where meter fitter had broke one of the slots in a meter terminal screw. took ages to rag the screw out using sharp precision sidecutters . new slot made with junior hacksaw. good as new.
 
Not sure I would have that 6.0 on a 40A as it is contained in conduit.
It isn't. The cooker is on a 32a. It is in conduit for approx 1.2m then is clipped direct to the skirting board before chased into the wall to the socket (don't ask, I didn't install it! ?) Total length of the cable is approx 2.5m to the switch then approx 1.5m to the cooker terminal.

I worked out the load as it is a 7.43kw cooker.

So taking diversity into account the 6.0 & 32A is more than sufficient as it is 10A +30% of remainder (22.3a) = 16.69a + 5A for the plug socket on the switch = 21.69A.

6mm in conduit is rated to 38A & 34A once in the wall. So it's well within spec.

The 6.0 40A is supplying the garage and that is clipped direct.?
 

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