Fluorescent Lights fault finding Starters vs Tubes vs Internal

[Noddy67]

Hi,

generally speaking if a afluorescent light isn't working is there any quick way of narrowing down the problem between the starter, the tube and the ballast/choke. Apart from changing starters and tubes (and i can't carry the latter around on the off-chance) is there a way of testing each component on the regular multi-meter or similar?

I'm not talking about any particular fluorescent here, just in principle.

thanks in advance.

R

 

[BigBreakfast]

Some quick ways to spot problem

Does the lamp have blackened ends either one or both?
Is there signs of heat around the ballast like the metalwork around the ballast darker than the rest of the fitting?
Is the starter the right type or has it melted?
Have the pins melted into the lampholder?
Are there any loose wires or connections?
I rarely find the capacitor to be at fault on older fittings.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

You can test the choke...if there is 230v in there should be 230v out....often failed chokes overheat and even partially melt,the smell is awful.but sometimes there is no obvious sign....One thing worth checking if someones 'had a go' is starter....often they put the wrong one in with the result that the tube starts flashing....4-65w does up to 5ft,either 58 or 65w.....125w does 6ft/8ft,including 70w and above.
Another common one is putting 'thin tubes' in older ballast start fittings,they only work in switch start fittings.

 

[lj.l]

with the light switched on twist the starter slowly as if your taking it out if lamp lights its usually the starter

 

[Noddy67]

thanks for that.

So apart from having a look and a fiddle there's no way to test if a tube has gone.

Cheers - it's a great forum!