Fused spurs in kitchen | on ElectriciansForums

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ngoodson1969

Hi all,

Is it good practice in a new kitchen install to have fused spurs for each appliance, (washing machine, fridge, dishwasher)? If so, would they be 13A fuses? Thanks.

Nick
 
Yes it is general practice to have each appliance on an individual fused 13A Spur (on some to have a normal switch above the work surface to turn on and off).

This allows isolation to replace / repair units with out disruption to the rest of the kitchen. I would usually make them accessable also as some I have seen were almost useless as they couldn't be turned off in the event of an emergency.
 
Yes it is general practice to have each appliance on an individual fused 13A Spur (on some to have a normal switch above the work surface to turn on and off).

This allows isolation to replace / repair units with out disruption to the rest of the kitchen. I would usually make them accessable also as some I have seen were almost useless as they couldn't be turned off in the event of an emergency.
Don't you mean Double Pole switches instead of normal switches
 
No normal switch, sorry the isolation is present via the 'Switched fused spur' not a normal unswitched fused one. I know this is an expensive way to do it but was all the rage in Kensington & Chelsea (Central London) where I was doing most of my instal work and they had the money to pay for it.

Thanks for pointing it out
 
No normal switch, sorry the isolation is present via the 'Switched fused spur' not a normal unswitched fused one. I know this is an expensive way to do it but was all the rage in Kensington & Chelsea (Central London) where I was doing most of my instal work and they had the money to pay for it.

Thanks for pointing it out
Know what you mean now.Never used them myself:)
 
I might be being daft here (I am still learning) but why do they have to

be fused spurs??

Surely the 13 A fuse in the washing machine plug top is sufficient.

And where would the discrimination be if you had a 13 A in line fuse

as well as the 13 A plug top.

Just a thought - I might be wrong :)

Unless, of course, integrated appliances are wired direct (i.e. no

plug) then I could see the point - I haven't fitted many kitchens:confused:
 
Technically, an isolator above the worktop for freestanding appliance isnt really needed.

BUT, it is advisable as appliances can be heavy and if they need to be isolated then the switch should be accessible.

Could always put a socket in an adjacent cupboard.
 
Indeed you are about the two 13A fuses in line, but there isnt really any cause for concern, as in effect, the appliance cable is 'double protected'.

The appliance could be hard wired to a flex outlet behind it, but there is a bit of a grey area.

Some manufacturers might not honor any warranty claims if the plug has been cut off and the appliance hard wired.

Mind you, they would have a hell of a job proving that doing this, caused the appliance to fail.
 
I do quite afew kitchens and find that putting a socket in the cupboard next to the appliance is the best way i have found so the can be both isolated for working on and switching off in emergencies, there are many appliances nowadays in kitchens just a few for example
washer
Dishwasher
fridge
freezer
dryer
intergrated microwave
Single oven
hobs
freestanding extractor fans

The list goes on and to have fuse spurs above the worktops for every appliance as well as the sockets the customer requires as well you may struggle for space without it looking awful.
 
Wayne if you 'Spur' off of a ring it is safer to make it a fused spur, they are often to open to abuse, leading to a radial off of a ring which is a no no.

Better to cover your --- and make it a fool proof (safe) as possible. As Jason says they aren't really required but are a 'nice to have' especially if the client likes the convenience and has the money to spend. The the cases I was referring to, we then 'Hard wired' them into the spur, removing the plug fuse.
 

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