Garden Light and cable

[Octopus]

Would like suggestions please.

Currently installing some garden lighting with remote wireless control (using SWA and wiska boxes) but the customer now wants a light "away from the electronic junction box. They'd like a spot light and I'm working on the basis that the light will fail sooner or later so a permenant "connection" buried in the ground under the tree isn't too practical. The run from the junction box to the position for the light is partly under a patio and partly under a flower bed.

My immediate thought would be to use flexible conduit (buried at a suitable depth) from the position of the light, back to the junction box.

Any other ideas

Thanks.

 

[Octopus]

anyone???

 

[i=p/u]

how close does the distance have to be from switch ..data.. or buy individual 1 for it.. if im getting it

 

[Octopus]

about 4 meters??

 

[i=p/u]

you could just do as you say and have 1 remote.... does it say on data sheet the distance light has to be withing switching box

 

[Flying Ninja]

Can you not just wire swa to another wiska and have the wiska next to the spot light for matinence. A stuffing gland with flex/ hi tuf to the light fitting.

Is it a wise box installation?

 

[Octopus]

Not a Wise box, using a Byron unit.. The Byron can't accept SWA.

 

[HandySparks]

If you're going to use flexible conduit you're best off using something designed for underground use rather than the thin corrugated stuff sold by the usual electrical suppliers.
Try a builders merchant, either for the black polythene duct similar to the blue underground water pipe or the twin wall corrugated, although I've not seen this smaller than about 50mm bore.

 

[Rappid]

I've got some flexible conduit for sale if you're interested, it's heavy duty stuff but nowhere as strong as a polythere duct. It's on the For Sale/Wanted forum, make me a offer if you're interested.

 

[Octopus]

I thought there might have been ideas!

 

[i=p/u]

as you say bit of duct, you could even use heavy gauge white pipe.. and dig down a spades distance, just seal the joint... it is whatever you see fit to get away with as a minimum.. come on murdoch dont give up:bulb2:

 

[ackbarthestar]

Would like suggestions please.

Currently installing some garden lighting with remote wireless control (using SWA and wiska boxes) but the customer now wants a light "away from the electronic junction box. They'd like a spot light and I'm working on the basis that the light will fail sooner or later so a permenant "connection" buried in the ground under the tree isn't too practical. The run from the junction box to the position for the light is partly under a patio and partly under a flower bed.

My immediate thought would be to use flexible conduit (buried at a suitable depth) from the position of the light, back to the junction box.

Any other ideas

Thanks.

I assume that this is the one you are using?
[h=1]Remote Control 4 Gang Outdoor Socket Kit HE440[/h]If I read the specs correctly, it appears you can separately control up to 4 different sockets or lights with a total maximum loading of 13A.

Link the box via a 20mm conduit ( 2 * couplers should do it) and terminate SWAs into an adaptable box. I wouldn't bother with flexible conduit.

Personally the range and frequency of this item is both too short for practical purposes and using the old 433MHz standard, respectively. IMO, I would opt for something like the Wizebox at 867MHz with a range of 250m, but then at a third of the price what have you got to loose?

 

[Octopus]

Yes you're right about the product. My "issue" is how to get a cable, which will be controlling a spot light, a few metres from the HE box to the light.

FYI the HE box has 38mm round holes in it with rubber grommets so the mechanical connection isn't great.

 

[ackbarthestar]

I have just replaced an underground 16mm2 4-core SWA to an office and utility room that had been damaged by a plumber looking for a water pipe.

Where I can, I run all cables above ground, but I expect that this will not help you if the client wants it to disappear.

Back to present problem. With 38mm exit holes at the bottom of the control box, I would butt up the adaptable box to the control box and use a silicone sealant around and between the box edges. Or better still remover the electronics from the controller and install into a larger GWISS.