Getting up floorboards with no marks?

[The Ghost]

As a matter of interest, I was mulling about a tool that could lift floorboards with no marks. I wonder if anyone on here has any method/tool to do so. Having lifted, no doubt, hundreds of floorboards over the years I can certainly get pretty well any board up without breakage. However I cannot see how I could do so without some marking on the adjacent floorboard.
A customer recently picked me up about such marks and thought (maybe correctly) you should be able to do it with no marking. Any thoughts?

 

[telectrix]

put a piece of 3mm steel plate under your crowbar. spreads the load.

 

[Pete999]

As a matter of interest, I was mulling about a tool that could lift floorboards with no marks. I wonder if anyone on here has any method/tool to do so. Having lifted, no doubt, hundreds of floorboards over the years I can certainly get pretty well any board up without breakage. However I cannot see how I could do so without some marking on the adjacent floorboard.
A customer recently picked me up about such marks and thought (maybe correctly) you should be able to do it with no marking. Any thoughts?

Could show you how I do it, but written instructions I doubt it. You will always leave marks no matter what method you adopt.

 

[mhar]

I use one of my granddad's tools. Very similar to modern lifters but it is approx 4" wide so spreads the load a lot better. Still can mark adjoining boards though, just not as much as what's on sale now.

 

[Pete999]

I use one of my granddad's tools. Very similar to modern lifters but it is approx 4" wide so spreads the load a lot better. Still can mark adjoining boards though, just not as much as what's on sale now.

3 inch bolster is best all these new fangled tools, bolster, hammer 18 inch chisel bar , tenon saw, is all you need.

 

[Midwest]

Tell the client to lift his own floorboards next time

 

[The Ghost]

To be fair to the client I had a rather rough worker with me who despite clear instructions broke a few corners off on the floorboards....doh! But yeh I usually use a four inch bolster and gently out the floorboard but as said above there is no way I can think of to leave no marks. Might try plate steel though that may help. I use a multi-tool to cut the boards, its brilliant, nice thin cut and precise the boards fit back together nicely afterwards.

 

[westward10]

Are these boards exposed.

 

[Wilko]

Other trick that sometimes helps is to punch the nails right through. Then there is the power of positive thinking etc

 

[Rpa07]

Lump hammer from underneath all the ones that you can but unless you protect the adjacent as Tel says with some 3mm steel or Ali then it's nigh on impossible on the first one.

 

[freddo]

Delway floorboard lifter. Though it does leave a pair of little screw holes in the board.

 

[polo1]

I always find "lost nailed" boards, especially those nailed with cut/clasp nails, a bu**er, even using a Fein!

 

[davesparks]

I have one of these which is pretty good
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/JPJ-TOOLS-F...3Afb2dad3c1590a786cc46a9bcffa3b426%7Ciid%3A14

 

[PEG]

It is straight-forward enough to achieve,but whether the average punter would appreciate the time,therefore expense...is another matter.

Get yourself a dedicated ratchet or powered board cutter,with a 0.5mm minor kerked blade,and an accurate depth stop. Get a Bahco nail puller,and some scraps of steel plate,these are used for bracing the heel of the puller,and holding any sprung board up,to view any "issues".

Cut across the mid point of any joist,removing any nails which hamper this. The bahco,with honed jaws,will extract ANY nail,even a buried lost-head,it will leave two small indents,each side of the extracted nail.

The first board lifted,if t&g,will need the tongue cutting,with a sharp knife,keep tight to the edge of the grooved edge,and if the grain guides the blade off course,re-start,or come from the other side.

Do not,run any blade/instrument,below the board,for any further than needed,as you may find more work...

Pit-falls; bear in mind,a lot of older properties,may have cables passing in "non-standard" routes,for example,over joists,under boards yet between nails. I have even seen boards "hollowed" to accommodate groups of cables,especially at door-ways!

Be careful driving nails below boards,with a punch,you may help it reach that pipe,or worse...

If appearance not critical,re-lay using screws,as holes are drilled,and re-lifting is a breeze!

 

[Midwest]

Or, you could just smash the s**t out of the particular floorboard, chuck the remnants in the skip, pop down to your local timber merchants and purchase (at the cost to the customer) a new board(s).

PS my biggest abhorrence is chipboard