Heating Wiring Problem - cylinder thermostat not working

[Aaron b]

If you look at the side of the valves there's a manual override. When it's energised you will see it move. You can force it on by pushing it to the open position and holding it up while it tries to close on the spring.

If they are both operating as expected mechanically and you are getting voltage on the orange with the valve in the closed position you have a faulty auxiliary switch which might have been what the electrician was referring to.

 

[davesparks]

one like this?

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No, I wouldn't trust that anywhere near mains voltages.

 

[dfreitag]

I would remove the permanent live from the valves by disconnecting the orange from the top of 11 and move it to the spare of 5. The spare black looks like it goes to the boiler. I'd connect that to 5 in the junction box and connect the black to 3 in the boiler.

Thanks for the instructions!

Just to make sure I don't misunderstand please see photos below - can you please confirm?

Many thanks!

 

[dfreitag]

If you look at the side of the valves there's a manual override. When it's energised you will see it move. You can force it on by pushing it to the open position and holding it up while it tries to close on the spring.

If they are both operating as expected mechanically and you are getting voltage on the orange with the valve in the closed position you have a faulty auxiliary switch which might have been what the electrician was referring to.

Hmm
Apologies, but I don't seem to quite understand what to do..


First of all, have I understood the below correctly?

HW&Heating OFF > ZV are energised & therefore closed

HW&Heating ON > ZV are "loose" & therefore open


Should I manually open them while the HW&heating is OFF? And what should I do then?


Quick reminder

• I was getting Voltage when HW&Heating is OFF (BEFORE changing the cables up according to your latest advice)
• I've confirmed that when HW&Heating is ON that the pipes heat up next to both ZV - does this mean they work correctly?
  [*]Upon the advice from the sparky I had over, I recently had the HW ZV changed (though only the motor, no the pipe).
  

Sorry for the "barrage"..

Many thanks again!

 

[brianmoooore]

In its rest position, a zone valve does not allow water to flow through it.
Applying 230V across the blue and brown wires opens the valve, so that water can flow, and also closes a switch between the orange and grey wires.
There is no electrical connection between the brown/blue wires and the orange/grey wires.
The power to the brown and blue wires should be controlled by the heating control system - thermostats, programmer, Nest, etc.
The boiler and pump should be controlled solely by the orange and grey wires, with no direct connection to the afore mentioned control system.
The boiler may also have a permanent live feed, which it uses to power the pump for a short while after the boiler has shut down, to prevent local overheating in the boiler.

 

[Aaron b]

Just to make sure I don't misunderstand please see photos below - can you please confirm?

Yeah that's what I was proposing. You would be removing the switch from the permanent live in the junction box and using the one in the boiler instead.

 

[dfreitag]

In its rest position, a zone valve does not allow water to flow through it.
Applying 230V across the blue and brown wires opens the valve, so that water can flow, and also closes a switch between the orange and grey wires.
There is no electrical connection between the brown/blue wires and the orange/grey wires.
The power to the brown and blue wires should be controlled by the heating control system - thermostats, programmer, Nest, etc.
The boiler and pump should be controlled solely by the orange and grey wires, with no direct connection to the afore mentioned control system.
The boiler may also have a permanent live feed, which it uses to power the pump for a short while after the boiler has shut down, to prevent local overheating in the boiler.

Thank you for clarifying, Brian!!

So I had it all wrong!

 

[dfreitag]

OK, so

I followed Aaron's instructions - and the boiler still fires up immediately - with HW&heat OFF.

Then I check voltage to ZV's again

with HW&heat OFF > 244V

with HW&heat ON > 0V


Is it me, or should it be the other way around??

 

[kropaske]

Before you go any further with this make sure you have the legionella prevention switched off in Nest settings as having this activated even with HW an CH in off boiler can kick in

 

[dfreitag]

Before you go any further with this make sure you have the legionella prevention switched off in Nest settings as having this activated even with HW an CH in off boiler can kick in

thanks for the heads up
I switched this off about a month back, when on the phone with Google..

 

[davesparks]

Before you go any further with this make sure you have the legionella prevention switched off in Nest settings as having this activated even with HW an CH in off boiler can kick in

I wouldnt advise turning off legionalla prevention quite so readily, it exists for a good reason.

As long as hot water is scheduled to be on continuously for 2 or more hours once per week it won't activate legionella prevention.

 

[westward10]

@dfreitag this thread is drifting into a step by step guide which the forum generally does not permit and I admit I have let it run as those contributing are knowledgeable people however, the meter you are using is not appropriate for verifying mains voltages which the forum cannot condone. I understand you have spent a considerable amount of money with no resolution but this thread has been running for nearly a week and I would advise you find a competent person to resolve this issue and whilst they are at it install those flexible cables in a professional manner.

 

[brianmoooore]

I would advise you find a competent person to resolve this issue

As I understand it, he's tried this approach five times. It's the 'competent' bit that appears to be the stumbling block.

 

[Aaron b]

OK, so

I followed Aaron's instructions - and the boiler still fires up immediately - with HW&heat OFF.

Then I check voltage to ZV's again

with HW&heat OFF > 244V

with HW&heat ON > 0V


Is it me, or should it be the other way around??

Your wiring should now resemble the s-plan diagram in the nest instructions minus the boiler being called for and not power cycled.

The voltage should only be present on the orange core when the valve is open, the small valves only have a normally open contact the bigger valves also have a white core. Something is amiss there.

The boiler should only run when there is a connection between 3 and 4. If there's nothing connected in-between the boiler shouldn't run. That PCB looked suspect with all of the flux, I couldn't tell if the joints were dry or take a guess at the function of the repaired section from the photo however.

Hopefully you have enough information to get someone to complete the troubleshooting. Good luck with it.

 

[dfreitag]

@dfreitag this thread is drifting into a step by step guide which the forum generally does not permit and I admit I have let it run as those contributing are knowledgeable people however, the meter you are using is not appropriate for verifying mains voltages which the forum cannot condone. I understand you have spent a considerable amount of money with no resolution but this thread has been running for nearly a week and I would advise you find a competent person to resolve this issue and whilst they are at it install those flexible cables in a professional manner.

Hi @westward10

Thanks for the heads up on this. I wasn't aware of any restrictions - apologies if I've broken any forum rules here.

In all honesty, after a lot of unnecessarily badly spent money and disappointment, this thread has been a breath of fresh air, and I'm amazed about how helpful this thread has been for me, plus very thankful to all who have contributed.

I feel I might be just a small step away from resolving this, and I promise that if not, that I will endeavor to seek (another) hopefully competent person to get this over the line. (I would welcome any recommendations on that note - I'm in East London. Checkatrade or even all good builders I know haven't really proven successful..)

In spirit of the above and if it's not too much to ask for, would it be ok to give me just a couple of more days?

I promise not to abuse this, just trying to get to a point where the situation is manageable by anyone coming in - it seems they're all so super busy at the moment, that they don't have the patience to really put in the time..

I'll understand if not possible, and thankful either way

PS. I didn't get that meter from Amazon. I got one from my local PC/electrics shop.