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Discuss help needed cooker trips RCD in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

T

tripletree

Hi I'm new on here and a complete novice. Today I wired up my new cooker and as soon as I tried to turn on the oven the RCD tripped although the one for the cooker didn't. When the oven was switched on the light on the cooker switch on the wall went off but when the oven was switched off the light comes back on. The neutral also lights up my screwdriver tester when the oven is switched on . The oven has never actually started because the RCD IS TRIPPED STRAIGHT AWAY.

i'M COMPLETELY BAFFLED BECAUSE i HAVEN'T OBVIOUSLY GOT A CLUE ABOUT ELECTRICS AND i'D REALLTY APPRECIATE ANY INPUT BUT IN LAYMENS TERMS PLEASE.

tHE COOKER IS ON A 40 AMP FUSE 6MM GOING TO THE SWITCH AND 10MM COMING OUT TO THE COOKER. tHE ELECTRICIAN FITTED THE 10 MM AS MY ORIGINAL 6MM COMING OUT WASN'T LONG ENOUGH HE SAID THE CABLE DIFFERENCE SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM. The cable from the board goes into the in and the cable to the cooker comes from the out in the appropriate connections ie live, neutral etc Can anyone help.......please. all the best Rob
 
It could be the neutral connection in the consumer unit is connected to the wrong neutral bar as it sounds like you are tripping an rcd but power still remains do you still get power showing on your tester after ther the rcd has tripped. I do question the abilities of the electrician you employed though as hes supposed to check all this before leaving and it would have shown up on his testing at numerous points.

Ps welcome to the forum
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Today I wired up my new cooker and as soon as I tried to turn on the oven the RCD tripped although the one for the cooker didn't.

Bit confused here with oven and cooker - have you got 2 separate circuits for oven and hob each with an RCD or, are the hob and oven separate appliances but on the same circuit supplied from a wall mounted cooker switch or are the hob and oven all part of the same appliance?
 
Thanks for the replies To answer a couple of questions the cooker is a dual fuel gas hobs and two electric ovens with one connection live negative and ear4th in the back of the cooker 10mm cable to cooker switch then the switch back to 40 amp mcd obviously also on the RCD.
i've left a message with the electrician but I'm the sort of person who loikes to understand things because to be honest my faith in this particular electrician isn't the best. I'd appreciate anyone who could give me soeme advice then at least I'll have some sort of idea myself about what ideas this guy comes up with and I can make a more considered judgement about whether to get another one (electrician). I'd really appreciate any input cheers Rob
 
Without been there to check things it all just ideas and possible solutions, the only issue i have is this 'electrician' has done a job powered it up and walked away wthout so much as a functional test never mind the fact he hasnt tested the circuit as hes required to do to ensure the circuit hes connecting is at least save to do so.
Your issue is that if you employ another electrician you will be charged to do so and i can bet you wont get any money back off the first electrician.
Id ask him to to come back explaining it dosnt work and possibly request a minor works certificate for what he has done.
 
Still a bit confused as to what is going on - you said

"When the oven was switched on the light on the cooker switch on the wall went off but when the oven was switched off the light comes back on."
and
"The oven has never actually started because the RCD IS TRIPPED STRAIGHT AWAY"

the cooker switch neon would go out because the RCD would cut the power :confused:

Also did you connect the oven to the outlet or did the electrician leave a trailing 10mm cable for you to connect to the cooker :eek:

Actually on reading your first post again it sounds as if your cooker switch is connecting straight to your cooker - it should go via a cooker outlet.

The electrician also changed the cable "AS MY ORIGINAL 6MM COMING OUT WASN'T LONG ENOUGH ". Your cooker should still be within 2metres (horizontally) of the cooker switch otherwise that doesn't comply either with regs.

Anyway all sounds a bit iffy.
 
Hi I'm new on here and a complete novice. Today I wired up my new cooker and as soon as I tried to turn on the oven the RCD tripped although the one for the cooker didn't. When the oven was switched on the light on the cooker switch on the wall went off but when the oven was switched off the light comes back on. The neutral also lights up my screwdriver tester when the oven is switched on . The oven has never actually started because the RCD IS TRIPPED STRAIGHT AWAY.

i'M COMPLETELY BAFFLED BECAUSE i HAVEN'T OBVIOUSLY GOT A CLUE ABOUT ELECTRICS AND i'D REALLTY APPRECIATE ANY INPUT BUT IN LAYMENS TERMS PLEASE.

tHE COOKER IS ON A 40 AMP FUSE 6MM GOING TO THE SWITCH AND 10MM COMING OUT TO THE COOKER. tHE ELECTRICIAN FITTED THE 10 MM AS MY ORIGINAL 6MM COMING OUT WASN'T LONG ENOUGH HE SAID THE CABLE DIFFERENCE SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM. The cable from the board goes into the in and the cable to the cooker comes from the out in the appropriate connections ie live, neutral etc Can anyone help.......please. all the best Rob

This may be irrelevant, but I changed a consumer unit last week, replacing one with no RCD, and the cooker tripped the RCD. The problem came down to the wall connector behind the oven, which has three big screws of which the middle one is attached directly to the metal casing. The kitchen fitter had wired it with neutral in the middle and earth on one of the sides, so that the earth cable had been taking half the current. Just as well he hadnt chosen to put the phase cable in the middle.

The red herring, which some readers may not have met yet, was that no-one had tried the oven, but the hob wired back to the same isolator switch (I know) drew enough current to trip the rcd when switched on, so the fault was superficially caused by the hob.

Matthew M
 
Thanks for the replies. I rang an old school friend today who knows his stuff explained exactly as I have on here and he staraight away new that it was wired wrong at the fuse box with the cooker being on RCD side of the fuse box but wired to the negative on the none RCD side as Darkwood had pointed out. It's now all sorted with evrything working fine. Thanks for replies I appreciate your time cheers Rob
 

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