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parm

Hi All, Still finding my feet in the world of electrics and hence my simple question:D I may have to extend the cable on one leg of a final ring mains so it will reach the new consumer unit this coming weekend. Firstly in cases such as this is it good practice to use a Henley block to extend the cables, and secondley as henley blocks look like large connector blocks would you enclose them in a terminal box? Thanks in advance from a newbee
 
A henley block, as normally described, has it's own (normally brown) enclosure. I would say a Henley block is an expensive way of extending a ring. I'd recommend using a non maintenance joint like a helacon or wago, or ccrimps, in an enclosure such as a blank face plate on a patress.

Are you sure you mean henley block and not a strip connector or chockoblock? I wouldn't recommend using one of them at all except for testing
 
Henley blocks are mainly designed for use with larger cable. An example would be if you wanted a second CU fed from the one meter.

You would bring the tails from the meter into the block, then 2 sets of tails from the block one set to each CU.

There is no need to encase the blocks into a box.

I would not use theses for a RING FINAL CIRCUIT, terminology Parm as your doing your 2391-10, as the termination screws are designed for large cables. Saying that they may do a henley block for smaller cables but I have never used one.

The simple method is either solder. or crimp the legs, then heat sleeve. If there were space I would fit a 4x 4 adaptable box, bit of din and klippons and extend that way, but that is just personal choice.
 
I really need to sort my terminology out don't I. With resepct to Rockers question I was referring to Henley and not strip/chockoblock. I suppose the best method would be to amalgamate advice from malcolmsanford & rocker, not use a henley block at all, crimp/solder the wires togethers and heat sleeve then put the entire joint in a surface mounted patress? would this be the best method for extending the ring final circuit? (think I'm picking up on malcolmsanford's gentle guidance on correct terminology - cheers always need reminding)
 
Cant see why solder would be required or suitable. I would go with the Helacon / Wago. Crimps can be used but would ensure they are fixed to avoid any movement that could disrupt the joint.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For the record I think solder is also classed as an approved non maintenance joint, and it has it's place here and there, but I think there are many better ways of jointing and splicing nowadays. That's just my opinion, mind.
 
I really need to sort my terminology out don't I. With resepct to Rockers question I was referring to Henley and not strip/chockoblock. I suppose the best method would be to amalgamate advice from malcolmsanford & rocker, not use a henley block at all, crimp/solder the wires togethers and heat sleeve then put the entire joint in a surface mounted patress? would this be the best method for extending the ring final circuit? (think I'm picking up on malcolmsanford's gentle guidance on correct terminology - cheers always need reminding)

Good man Parm, it's a bl***y ball ache but the C&G will knock marks off for wrong terminology.

If your talis are really short mate perhaps a meter or so, then think about the box, din and klippons it looks neat. if they just cm's short then the crimps, heat sleeve is ok as the join will most likey be in the CU
 
Thanks all, I'm going to try and use this install for elecsa assesment so I really don't want to make a mess of things. Do you guys have any good websites or places in the midlands I could get hold helco/wago blocks? was thinking about helacon from drill bits direct?

My main problem is I know the theory pretty well but I work in Medical Device Manufacturing Mon-Fri so I don't get to practice as much as I would like. Love to do work as a learning sparky
 
Maint free is the way to go with helcon/wago blocks. They are quick, simple and dont need to be checked for tightness. Oh, and I would never solder cables for jointing

Ive just dealt with too many dry joint problems and also dont find the need to solder cables when there are much better and simpler ways of doing it...........just personal preference
 

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