Hob and Oven. Single circuit or split?

[jase31]

On a new kitchen install the oven and hob are not specified yet and are therefore unknown to check MI. Most likely it will be a built under double oven, and a standard 4 ring ceramic hob.

Is it beneficial to install separate circuits to oven and hob, or a single cable to isolator, and dual connection plate to appliances?

What are others doing in this situation?

 

[Snapester]

I have put both on one isolator and have seen it done many places, depends on what the customer wants and if the appliances aren't massive rating, do your calculations and you can do what you please.

 

[SirKit Breaker]

Snapster sums it up well.

But then there is the old argument that will crop up. Anything appliance rated at 2Kw or higher should have its own circuit.

If you cant find out the ratings, then err on the side of caution, and run a 6mm for each appliance. It will be easier to do now, than it will once the kitchen is all done, and you find out you have dropped a -------. Been there, done it and have the T shirt. The 6mm will depend on the length of run and installation method obviously, but it will cope with the demands of most ovens and hobs, as they dont run at full load once they have warmed up.

Cheers............Howard

 

[telectrix]

as above. howard's solution covers all possibilities, if you ain't got the details of the loads.

 

[Octopus]

As above and to make your life a little easier make sure you use the Click 45a Easyfit Dual Appliance Outlet Plate

 

[SirKit Breaker]

As above and to make your life a little easier make sure you use the Click 45a Easyfit Dual Appliance Outlet Plate

Nice one Murdoch, i didnt even know you could get such a thing.

Cheers,,,,,,,,Howard

 

[Octopus]

Nice one Murdoch, i didnt even know you could get such a thing.

Cheers,,,,,,,,Howard

No problem, not sure how long they've been around though.

 

[telectrix]

as long as the oven and hob are not on opposite sides of the kitchen!!!!

 

[jase31]

Snapster sums it up well.

But then there is the old argument that will crop up. Anything appliance rated at 2Kw or higher should have its own circuit.

If you cant find out the ratings, then err on the side of caution, and run a 6mm for each appliance. It will be easier to do now, than it will once the kitchen is all done, and you find out you have dropped a -------. Been there, done it and have the T shirt. The 6mm will depend on the length of run and installation method obviously, but it will cope with the demands of most ovens and hobs, as they dont run at full load once they have warmed up.

Cheers............Howard

Thanks, I has forgot above the 2kw oven requirement.

 

[jase31]

If you cant find out the ratings, then err on the side of caution, and run a 6mm for each appliance. It will be easier to do now, than it will once the kitchen is all done, and you find out you have dropped a -------. Been there, done it and have the T shirt. The 6mm will depend on the length of run and installation method obviously, but it will cope with the demands of most ovens and hobs, as they dont run at full load once they have warmed up.

Cheers............Howard

Kitchen is not huge, Tied down the specs, hob should be no more than 7.2kw, and oven 4.6kw, this would be a 32a and a 20a supply, assuming max load, no diversity. In theory, applying diversity, load should be just under 23a. Distance from CU is <6m, clipped directly to wall, so A2 radial should be sufficient for both appliances, which agrees with OSG which recommends a 32a circuit up to 15kw.

Based on these loads, I assume the most common method would be a single 6mm cable on a 45a mcb , isolator, dual connection plate to supply both oven & hob, this give a supply approx double that required by diversity. Would anyone do it differently, is 2x6mm circuits, or A2 radial to the hob and A3 radial to the oven etc.

 

[Amp David]

As above and to make your life a little easier make sure you use the Click 45a Easyfit Dual Appliance Outlet Plate

Do those things fit a standard flush fit back box?

 

[jase31]

Do those things fit a standard flush fit back box?

they fit a standard 25mm box. http://www.scolmore.com/documents/mode.pdf

 

[malcolmsanford]

Kitchen is not huge, Tied down the specs, hob should be no more than 7.2kw, and oven 4.6kw, this would be a 32a and a 20a supply, assuming max load, no diversity. In theory, applying diversity, load should be just under 23a. Distance from CU is <6m, clipped directly to wall, so A2 radial should be sufficient for both appliances, which agrees with OSG which recommends a 32a circuit up to 15kw.

Based on these loads, I assume the most common method would be a single 6mm cable on a 45a mcb , isolator, dual connection plate to supply both oven & hob, this give a supply approx double that required by diversity. Would anyone do it differently, is 2x6mm circuits, or A2 radial to the hob and A3 radial to the oven etc.

So we are connecting these appliances via BS 1363 Sockets I see ..............might have a few problems there

 

[Octopus]

I'd recommend a 35 mm box

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Snapster sums it up well.

But then there is the old argument that will crop up. Anything appliance rated at 2Kw or higher should have its own circuit.

If you cant find out the ratings, then err on the side of caution, and run a 6mm for each appliance. It will be easier to do now, than it will once the kitchen is all done, and you find out you have dropped a -------. Been there, done it and have the T shirt. The 6mm will depend on the length of run and installation method obviously, but it will cope with the demands of most ovens and hobs, as they dont run at full load once they have warmed up.

Cheers............Howard

2KW after diversity has been applied.....