Hottub running hot. What to do? | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Hottub running hot. What to do? in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

It is, but this was during the initial heat up phase from cold, so the heater was running full time to get the water from 18°c (current tap water temp) to 38°c Takes a little over 30minutes to get a 1°c increase in temp so it has to run for around 12-15hrs flat out from cold. Once its at temp it will just idle between the hysteresis points.
even so, the plug/socket should not overheat.that is caused by bad connection/s, either between the plug and socket, or the terminations into the socket, mainly caused by either poor quality items or wear through excessive use.
 
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Is the plug factory fitted, can you get at the connections, have you checked the connections at the socket? loose connections at these locations caN cause a high resistance hence a higher temperature, WORTH CHECKING
 
We're kind of going round in circles now guys. Thanks for the input.

Ah but only because you refuse to try changing the plug for a good quality item. Surely worth a try? It is a suspect item.
 
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I never said I wouldnt change it. In fact i said in the first post that seems like the only sensible option. (although i suggested going for a 16a connector instead but a better socket is also worth a try)

But I wont make irreversible changes to a brand new purchase until its proven working as-shipped. If its not, it goes back under warranty / not fit for purpose.

My point was the last few posts have basically repeated what people have already said a number of times in the thread, suggesting that people have stopped reading the thread and are just responding to the first post so theres no point going round in circles over and over again. You have all given me some useful advice and I will be taking action based on that advice. Thank you.
 
I never said I wouldnt change it. In fact i said in the first post that seems like the only sensible option. (although i suggested going for a 16a connector instead but a better socket is also worth a try)

But I wont make irreversible changes to a brand new purchase until its proven working as-shipped. If its not, it goes back under warranty / not fit for purpose.

My point was the last few posts have basically repeated what people have already said a number of times in the thread, suggesting that people have stopped reading the thread and are just responding to the first post so theres no point going round in circles over and over again. You have all given me some useful advice and I will be taking action based on that advice. Thank you.

It's not that people have stopped reading the thread - the reason the advice is being repeated is that it is good advice.

Hope you get it sorted though.
 
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Without repeating what others have mentioned.

How far away from the house is this hot tub situated.

Is the circuit compliant to have <5% volt drop?
 
Just a thought ...
Was it plugged into one of those enclosed "waterproof" sockets, with the cover closed ?
That would restrict airflow and hence cooling of the plug. Our 13A plugs all have a little "heater" in them otherwise referred to as a fuse. Under continuous loading this will heat up the plug - relying on varoius routes for heat disipation : air cooling, conduction down the cable and air cooling from that, conduction through the socket body and air cooling of that, conduction through the socket wiring, and conduction through wiring and case to the mounting surface (eg bricks). I suspect aa good metalclad socket wired with thicker cable will run còoler (all other things being equal) than a plastic one with thin wiring.

As to warranty ...
Cutting the plug off would void your ability to return it because you've changed your mind. It could also remove any manufacturer or retailer provided warranty which could quite reasonably exclude modified devices. However, it could not be used to remove your legal rights should any other part of the unit become faulty. The law is clear that any contract clause that removes your legal rights as a consumer is automatically void and unenforceable.
 
How far away from the house is this hot tub situated.

Its literally right at the back of the house within reach of the house itself. So less than 5m (the length of the cable that came with it). Allowing about 0.5m for the cable to go in the window and down to the indoor socket.

Like I suggested earlier in the thread, the problem of the socket "overheating" is largely solved running the cable to the professionally installed socket inside the house. The cable does, however, still run warm, and that was my main question. Should it.

Most of my research seems to suggest that warm is fine, and hot is not, especially rapidly-heating hot. In its current configuration it seems to be just getting warm. (about 32°c based on FLIR camera)

@Simon47 Thats actually a fairly good point that i had not considered. But i am pretty sure the key cause was inadequate cable and poor socket installation.

Ultimately I think a new external socket, with better quality, and better fitting cable, should solve the overheating issue, but wont stop it running warm due to the nature of the load.

Also @Simon47, the point about the warranty... that was exactly my point. I am happy to alter the unit once its clear it works and i am not going to return it within a week/month/whatever.
 
As to warranty ...
Cutting the plug off would void your ability to return it because you've changed your mind. It could also remove any manufacturer or retailer provided warranty which could quite reasonably exclude modified devices. However, it could not be used to remove your legal rights should any other part of the unit become faulty. The law is clear that any contract clause that removes your legal rights as a consumer is automatically void and unenforceable.

See #22.

(add 5 words)
 
Also @Simon47, the point about the warranty... that was exactly my point. I am happy to alter the unit once its clear it works and i am not going to return it within a week/month/whatever.

Have you read my #22? The only way to confirm if cutting off the plug voids the warranty is contacting your manufacturer/retailer.

In my experience & research, most manufacturers do not. I recall one, stating if the supply lead was damaged, a replacment lead (and plug) could be purchased from them.

If the first incident, caused the socket outlet to be thermally damaged, then there is no way your can confirm the moulded plug top has not been damaged as well.

Ultimately, you need to contact the manufacturer/retailer, and ask them whether their cable should be working at this temperature, and if not whether you can replace the moulded plug, or obtain a replacement.
 
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most leads with a good solid load on them will heat up a bit,
this is normal, but is it too much ? again a very subjective thing,
All you can do is make sure it's in good condition and if possible able to shed some of it's heat, I E not covered with insulation and stuff.
If the leads rated for 75 degree's ? and most are, than most people would consider 55 to be hot, but it's still well within it's capacity !
 
Like I suggested earlier in the thread, the problem of the socket "overheating" is largely solved running the cable to the professionally installed socket inside the house. The cable does, however, still run warm, and that was my main question. Should it.

Most of my research seems to suggest that warm is fine, and hot is not, especially rapidly-heating hot. In its current configuration it seems to be just getting warm. (about 32°c based on FLIR camera)

So out comes the flir camera to look at the flex but not the plug or socket which is clearly where the problem is

43 posts in and the OP is reluctant to or does not want to change the plug which is a key element of the problem

There is clearly a minor issue with this hot tub and the OP clearly is not happy with it's operation. Having rejected most if not all of the advice given I would suggest the only conclusion to solve this issue is for him to return it as not fit for purpose
 
I would imagine the manufacturers get a few calls about this problem. Lets face it, given the way (some) people treat plugs and sockets, I bet a fair number have weakened contact springs.
The OP might well call the manufacturer helpline who are likely to either send out a replacement kead or advise having the plug replaced.

As an aside, some years ago a friend upgraded his compressor by buying a 4hp model to replace the 3hp one. When he was starting to run low on working sockets, he asked for help :rolleyes: The current was melting the switches in the fairly decent metalclad sockets o_O He'd already found out that running it through an extension lead stopped it blowing fuses at startup - as well as allowing use of other sockets as each one stopped working.
 

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