I need a drill for driving ground rods

[Allenanupam]

I'm absolutely tired of renting here. I need a drill for driving ground rods and soil is moderately hard one

I wanted to know how big/heavy drill I need for ground rods. 10-13 amps, and around 12-15 lbs. Will that be enough? i know demo hammers are usually a bit higher than that

Have done quite a bit of research on the internet. it seems most prefer demolition hammer.

Also few suggesting SDS Max/Plus Rotary Hammer Drills are quite effective.

like always, i don't want to waste my hard earned money.

What you guys actually do? Will greatly appreciate any advice, thanks

 

[Dave OCD]

Until now, lumphammer, even a sledgehammer on occasions -but I need to get with the times I guess. ?

 

[suffolkspark]

If not tapping in by hand I just ram my armeg box sinker on my sds and lay on the fukr ?

 

[Julie.]

I have one similar to this

Makita HR4011C Rotary Hammer Demolition Drill, SDS Max With AVT 110 V

Makita HR4011C Rotary Hammer Demolition Drill, SDS max with AVT, complete with carrying case, bit grease, depth rod and side handle The Makita HR4011C rotary

www.toolstop.co.uk

There is a picture of mine in post 6 of this thread

Case for long 600mm to 1000mm Drill Bits. | on Free Electrical Advice - Electricians Forums

Find Case for long 600mm to 1000mm Drill Bits. Advice and Help. How-to Case for long 600mm to 1000mm Drill Bits. in the Electrical Tools and Products advice boards on ElectriciansForums.net | Free Electrical Advice - Electricians Forums: Electricians' Talk Forums. Case for long 600mm to 1000mm...

www.electriciansforums.net

It's a general drill for long/big/difficult stuff but has an impact only function so is good for driving rods.

 

[plugsandsparks]

I use a cheap 240V Titan heavy SDS with hammer action from screwfix. I think it was like £70 and thought hey if it only does the immediate job of a couple of lamp posts i will be happy, 5 years later its still running.

Does 2M rods a doddle and 3M if in clay.

 

[Marvo]

I've got an SDS max rod driving attachment but I find it quicker to use a slide hammer if the rod is only 4 or 5 meters. I made my own slide hammer from some stainless steam pipe offcuts but you can buy them.

 

[Allenanupam]

corded ones will be much more preferable i think...seriously doubting if cordless ones do have the power it needs for the job

 

[Strima]

I use a cheap 240V Titan heavy SDS with hammer action from screwfix. I think it was like £70 and thought hey if it only does the immediate job of a couple of lamp posts i will be happy, 5 years later its still running.

Does 2M rods a doddle and 3M if in clay.

Same here, normally just sits in it's box until needed, had mine around the same length of time and has proven to be really handy for channelling into concrete etc.

 

[Allenanupam]

I have one similar to this

Makita HR4011C Rotary Hammer Demolition Drill, SDS Max With AVT 110 V

Makita HR4011C Rotary Hammer Demolition Drill, SDS max with AVT, complete with carrying case, bit grease, depth rod and side handle The Makita HR4011C rotary

www.toolstop.co.uk

There is a picture of mine in post 6 of this thread

Case for long 600mm to 1000mm Drill Bits. | on Free Electrical Advice - Electricians Forums

Find Case for long 600mm to 1000mm Drill Bits. Advice and Help. How-to Case for long 600mm to 1000mm Drill Bits. in the Electrical Tools and Products advice boards on ElectriciansForums.net | Free Electrical Advice - Electricians Forums: Electricians' Talk Forums. Case for long 600mm to 1000mm...

www.electriciansforums.net

It's a general drill for long/big/difficult stuff but has an impact only function so is good for driving rods.

thanks a bunch for your recommendation...I heard SDS MAX can do it's job and hold up quite well
do you know someone who went with cordless ones?

 

[Julie.]

thanks a bunch for your recommendation...I heard SDS MAX can do it's job and hold up quite well
do you know someone who went with cordless ones?

No, tbh I use this really for the more difficult holes, rather than a standard drill, but it also supports non-rotary hammer stuff, so it's good for breakers, chisels, and earth rods, wouldn't have got it if it didn't do the whole thing as it's a bit ott for just driving rods.

It was also on a much reduced offer at the time - think it was the local tradepoint/B&Q when it was closing down - nobody wanted it because it was 110v .

The actual one I have is hr3000c - they brought a 1kW model out hr4000, then updates over time through to hr4013

 

[Megawatt]

I'm absolutely tired of renting here. I need a drill for driving ground rods and soil is moderately hard one

I wanted to know how big/heavy drill I need for ground rods. 10-13 amps, and around 12-15 lbs. Will that be enough? i know demo hammers are usually a bit higher than that

Have done quite a bit of research on the internet. it seems most prefer demolition hammer.

Also few suggesting SDS Max/Plus Rotary Hammer Drills are quite effective.

like always, i don't want to waste my hard earned money.

What you guys actually do? Will greatly appreciate any advice, thanks

I have a hammer drill in my truck and driving ground rods is easy, drilling through brick and it works great (well worth the money). Try using a hose pipe and get the ground wet to soften up the ground

 

[Allenanupam]

I have a hammer drill in my truck and driving ground rods is easy, drilling through brick and it works great (well worth the money). Try using a hose pipe and get the ground wet to soften up the ground

can you name the product model you are using so i can have a look at that

 

[Julie.]

I have a hammer drill in my truck and driving ground rods is easy, drilling through brick and it works great (well worth the money). Try using a hose pipe and get the ground wet to soften up the ground

We can't really wet the ground in the uk/eu, if we did we would artificially lower the resistance, such a thing is not permitted, as we then couldn't energise the site until the resistance had settled down to normal values.

There are occasions where you could, if you are placing the rods etc several months ahead of actually going live, when you can then take proper measurements before energising.

 

[Megawatt]

We can't really wet the ground in the uk/eu, if we did we would artificially lower the resistance, such a thing is not permitted, as we then couldn't energise the site until the resistance had settled down to normal values.

There are occasions where you could, if you are placing the rods etc several months ahead of actually going live, when you can then take proper measurements before energising.

@Julie We actually don’t have a whole lot of rain here lately, we are in a drought so the ground absorbs quickly but it give me something to think about. Thanks

 

[Megawatt]

can you name the product model you are using so i can have a look at that

It’s a Bosch Hammer drill and I bought mine at the flea market for $80.00. It’s got some age on it but I don’t have a model number, but it’s the smaller one but it makes quick work on ground rods, brick and concrete. The masonry bits are not to expensive and I have 3/16 up to 1 inch bits.