Eh up
So, I'm taking my 2394/5 exams at the start of December, and I'm coincidentally covering inspection and testing in my 2365. Thought I'd get some more practice in, having been appraised in (by my tutor) and confident with safe isolation procedure.
I've got a 16th edition Wylex board:
RCD-protected side:
2: Spare (32A)
3: sockets (kitchen+consevatory), 32A type B 60898 RFC 2.5+1.5 T&E
4: sockets (except kitchen + conservatory), 32A type B 60898 RFC 2.5+1.5 T&E
5: Shower (disconnected at isolator, replaced with boiler-fed shower), 40A
Non-RCD-protected side:
1: lights down+doorbell+porch light (spur at board), 6A type B 60898 RFC 1.5+1.0 T&E
2: lights up, 6A type B 60898 RFC 1.5+1.0 T&E
3: Water heater (disconnected), 16A
Ze = 0.10, Ipf 2.3kA, TN-C-S
I did some non-trip Zs measurements on the two RFCs. Circuit 4 looked fine and dandy: consistent readings through the house, between about 0.42 ohms and 0.50 ohms, except a couple that look like they might be spurs where it creeps up to 0.63/0.64 ohms - funnily enough, both of these are surface-mounted boxed, as opposed to recessed into the plaster. Then on dead tests, r1, rn and r2 all about right: 0.59, 0.60 and 0.97 respectively. R1+R2 followed nicely, between 0.31 and 0.42. All good
Circuit 3, however, is broken. Literally, as in, it's not a ring. Measured Zs reflected this: starts low at the end of the kitchen closest to the DB, (0.35 ohms), one of the kitchen sockets reads 1.35 ohms which is an anomaly, and Zs creeps up in the conservatory through 0.54 to 0.69.
r1, rn and r2 all show no continuity.
So I got my long lead out. Interestingly, one socket in the kitchen (on the wall closest to the DB) is on leg "A", whilst all the other stuff is on leg "B".
Will it surprise anyone that we had our kitchen done recently? I have left a message on the answerphone of the company that did the electrical work, I will give them the opportunity to put it right.
As a temporary measure, I have also swapped the 32A MCB for the 16A one that used to supply the water heater. Guess I'll have to avoid boiling the kettle when the oven's on.
That was as much time as I had before I had to pack up in preparation for picking up my son.
Some pictures:
Not the neatest installation, is it? A busbar cover would make me more comfortable, too.
Back together, the split ring now on a 16A MCB.
So, I'm taking my 2394/5 exams at the start of December, and I'm coincidentally covering inspection and testing in my 2365. Thought I'd get some more practice in, having been appraised in (by my tutor) and confident with safe isolation procedure.
I've got a 16th edition Wylex board:
RCD-protected side:
2: Spare (32A)
3: sockets (kitchen+consevatory), 32A type B 60898 RFC 2.5+1.5 T&E
4: sockets (except kitchen + conservatory), 32A type B 60898 RFC 2.5+1.5 T&E
5: Shower (disconnected at isolator, replaced with boiler-fed shower), 40A
Non-RCD-protected side:
1: lights down+doorbell+porch light (spur at board), 6A type B 60898 RFC 1.5+1.0 T&E
2: lights up, 6A type B 60898 RFC 1.5+1.0 T&E
3: Water heater (disconnected), 16A
Ze = 0.10, Ipf 2.3kA, TN-C-S
I did some non-trip Zs measurements on the two RFCs. Circuit 4 looked fine and dandy: consistent readings through the house, between about 0.42 ohms and 0.50 ohms, except a couple that look like they might be spurs where it creeps up to 0.63/0.64 ohms - funnily enough, both of these are surface-mounted boxed, as opposed to recessed into the plaster. Then on dead tests, r1, rn and r2 all about right: 0.59, 0.60 and 0.97 respectively. R1+R2 followed nicely, between 0.31 and 0.42. All good
Circuit 3, however, is broken. Literally, as in, it's not a ring. Measured Zs reflected this: starts low at the end of the kitchen closest to the DB, (0.35 ohms), one of the kitchen sockets reads 1.35 ohms which is an anomaly, and Zs creeps up in the conservatory through 0.54 to 0.69.
r1, rn and r2 all show no continuity.
So I got my long lead out. Interestingly, one socket in the kitchen (on the wall closest to the DB) is on leg "A", whilst all the other stuff is on leg "B".
Will it surprise anyone that we had our kitchen done recently? I have left a message on the answerphone of the company that did the electrical work, I will give them the opportunity to put it right.
As a temporary measure, I have also swapped the 32A MCB for the 16A one that used to supply the water heater. Guess I'll have to avoid boiling the kettle when the oven's on.
That was as much time as I had before I had to pack up in preparation for picking up my son.
Some pictures:
Not the neatest installation, is it? A busbar cover would make me more comfortable, too.
Back together, the split ring now on a 16A MCB.
Last edited: