Installation of Outdoor Light

[Thesis]

Hey guys,

looking for a bit of advise on the installation of an outside light.

I plan on chasing out the plasterboard and running a cable from a spare light switch in the kitchen through to the exterior (approx. 4.5m away).

The light I have seen is: LAP Weyburn Outdoor LED Floodlight Black 50W 5000lm - Screwfix - https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-weyburn-outdoor-led-floodlight-black-50w-5000lm/671pg

I currently have some 2.5mm grey twin and earth. The light itself is .75mm cable. Do I need to get some 1.5mm or .75 cable instead? It looks like all the existing circuits are 1.5mm. The circut is protected on a 6a mcb.

Secondly, what is the best way to connect, can i use Wago connectors / terminal block and push in to the cavity, or is it best to use an interior junction box in the wall and connect the flex from the light internally?

thanks,

 

[westward10]

Does the light switch have a neutral present.
No you can't shove unenclosed connectors into a wall cavity.
Does the circuit have 30ma RCD protection.

 

[Thesis]

Does the light switch have a neutral present.
No you can't shove unenclosed connectors into a wall cavity.
Does the circuit have 30ma RCD protection.

Hey, yes it has neutrals present both from the live input and the other lights coming from it. it does have RCD protection of 6a at the consumer unit.

 

[davesparks]

it does have RCD protection of 6a at the consumer unit.

For the sake of clarity could you post a picture of this?

If its rated at 6A then its and MCB not an RCD. But it may be an RCBO which is a device that combines an MCB and an RCD in the same unit.

It is very important to ensure that the circuit has the correct 30mA RCD protection as this is a requirement of the wirkng regulations and provides you with protection against electric shocks.

 

[Thesis]

For the sake of clarity could you post a picture of this?

If its rated at 6A then its and MCB not an RCD. But it may be an RCBO which is a device that combines an MCB and an RCD in the same unit.

It is very important to ensure that the circuit has the correct 30mA RCD protection as this is a requirement of the wirkng regulations and provides you with protection against electric shocks.

Please see attached consumer unit. Ground floor lighting is protected.

thanks

 

[FatAlan]

Post a pic of the wires at the switch? They may not necessarily be neutral, they could be live I.e a switched live that has not been sleeved in the correct colour. Make sure you switch the circuit off before removing the switch cover though in case any connections are loose.

 

[robd]

Can't say I like this..do you know about cable safe zones. If not take a look before you crack on

 

[Thesis]

Can't say I like this..do you know about cable safe zones. If not take a look before you crack on

yes, 150mm rule / in line with sockets.

 

[Thesis]

Post a pic of the wires at the switch? They may not necessarily be neutral, they could be live I.e a switched live that has not been sleeved in the correct colour. Make sure you switch the circuit off before removing the switch cover though in case any connections are loose.

Hi,

the wires arent switched neutrals. I purely need advice on cable size and connecting the 0.75 to internal wire.

thanks,

 

[robd]

Match up with what is there

 

[LewisM]

I'd use a outdoor junction box to connect that light up I'd avoid LAP as you'll be returning it within 6 months.

50W Skyline Slim+ LED Floodlight - 4000K

50W Skyline Slim+ LED Floodlight - 4000K

www.gil-lec.co.uk

Wiska Junction Box 85x49x51mm

Wiska Junction Box 85x49x51mm

www.gil-lec.co.uk

20mm Cable Gland Black

20mm Cable Gland Black

www.gil-lec.co.uk

 

[ipf]

Hi,

the wires arent switched neutrals. I purely need advice on cable size and connecting the 0.75 to internal wire.

thanks,

......and that proves you don't know what you're on about.
Get someone qualified to sort it.

 

[littlespark]

1.0 or 1.5 T&E from switch to light.
Outside waterproof jointbox onto the flex

Safe zones. You can go straight up from the switch, but it is very likely you will find the cables feeding this switch buried in the wall

 

[PeakSteve]

Hey guys,

looking for a bit of advise on the installation of an outside light.

I plan on chasing out the plasterboard and running a cable from a spare light switch in the kitchen through to the exterior (approx. 4.5m away).

The light I have seen is: LAP Weyburn Outdoor LED Floodlight Black 50W 5000lm - Screwfix - https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-weyburn-outdoor-led-floodlight-black-50w-5000lm/671pg

I currently have some 2.5mm grey twin and earth. The light itself is .75mm cable. Do I need to get some 1.5mm or .75 cable instead? It looks like all the existing circuits are 1.5mm. The circut is protected on a 6a mcb.

Secondly, what is the best way to connect, can i use Wago connectors / terminal block and push in to the cavity, or is it best to use an interior junction box in the wall and connect the flex from the light internally?

thanks,

 

[PeakSteve]

Firstly, you would NEED a neutral at the switch (not just a blue or black wire, which is likely a switched live).
Second: You need to run the concealed wire under the plasterboard in a "prescribed zone" (e.g. vertically or horizontally) AND it will need 30mA RCD-protection.
Third: 2.5mm is TOO BIG! (It may not fit in either the light or the switch box). 0.75mm (flex) isn't recognised by BS7671 (and flex wire is frowned upon for fixed installation), BUT 1.0mm Twin and Earth is fine - unless exposed to sunlight, in which case it is NOT OK! A different wire, or conduit, will be needed (although painting the wire, arguably, could provide the required UV protection!)
Fourth: You should ensure the Earth wire is fully functioning (even though the new light may not require it).
Wago connectors, or similar, OR choc blocks are fine for extending the Neutral and Earth (the Live will come from the switch).

Unless all of the above can be assured, I would advise you employ an electrician.