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J

jase31

How do others connect integrated appliances. By a FCU above the worktop controlling a remote socket below, a bank of FCU, or 13a socket in adjacent cupboard to allow appliance to be plugged in?

OSG states that Kitchen Appliances built into kitchen furniture (intergrated appliances) should be connected to a socket outlet or switch fused connection unit that is accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use. Alternatevely, where an appliance is supplied from a socket outlet or a connection unit, these should be controlled by an accessable double-pole switch or switched fused connection unit........

How do others achieve this?
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

Depends on the layout of the kitchen, but as a preference I go for a FSU running a non switched socket below the counter (or wherever). On occasions I've used some grid ones to avoid too many plates. Click do a modular system which makes it possible to put a cooker switch and two fused appliances into one 2G plate.

What I find quite often is that you need to be a little inventive with how you fix the below counter socket, as you run out of space pretty quickly for plug tops and the cut-out at the backs of the units is often too low for the bend radius on a moulded plug, so sometimes I've had to mount sockets at 90deg to the normal.
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

I usually go the FSU with socket below route, but recently had a kitchen fitter tell me not to do this as the appliance would not go back far enough once it was plugged in.
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

Wherever possible... socket, fcu or DP switch in adjacent cupboard : labelled up and accessible.

Or unless a special request from the customer is to have everything above the worktop (personally I now just think it looks untidy having a load FCU's, DP switches above - but I did go along this route for years until I knew otherwise)

Thats just my opinion, each to there own :shades_smile:

Sy
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

I always put the isolation above the worktop and use the 2 + 1 back boxes so the FCU/isolator sits directly next to the socket. Looks neat and tidy.
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

In the last few kitchen jobs, the kitchen fitters wanted no obstruction behind the appliance due to tight fit, so i used a FCU above the worktop feeding a trailing socket below which is free to move about the area below. Fitters were very happy with this.
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

As long as you follow the general rules
1/ Local and accessible Isolation
2/ Local O/L and S/C (probably no discrimination here)

Then you will be well within the requirements of BS7671 and AD M, P.

I do the same as others here
SFCU above work surface SSO below
or
ISO above work surface SSSO below
or
SFCU above work surface FO below
or but not my preference

Grid Sw ISO feeding several SSOs below work surface
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

Advice on grid switches?
New kitchen going in and customer doesnt want 4 seperate switches (13A oven, dishwasher, cooker hood, and fridge/freezer) I have suggested a grid plate with all four switches together, customer happy with this, only never used one before, do I run it as a radial? or is it possible to incorperate it into a ring?
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

easiest way is a 4mm radial. for those 4 appliances the grid switches need to be on a 32A circuit. or you could use a 32A RFC in 2.5mm.
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

Connecting appliance radials to the RFC used to be quite common in kitchens on new builds.
You must maintain the ring across all of the switches.
Use the correct type and size of switch, tight connections and use a deep backing box

Problems are:
The heaviest loads on the ring are all located at one point. So if these loads are not at the end of the ring(half way round) then the volt drop will be different in each leg. Doesn't matter too much for light loads but when you have 3 or 4 * 3kW loads in one place switching in and out then you are likely to place short term overload currents on the shortest leg

We had several overheating problems at the terminals and at least one burnt out
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

I thought the grid switches were a good idea til i used them.Pain in the --- to connect up.Would use 1.5 for appliances next time with a 4mm radial. 8 2.5's and all the links for feeds was not good!
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

I always put the isolation above the worktop and use the 2 + 1 back boxes so the FCU/isolator sits directly next to the socket. Looks neat and tidy.
You mean like a double gate box murdoch? We use em all the time and they are easier to fit and look better too.....
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

Connecting appliance radials to the RFC used to be quite common in kitchens on new builds.
You must maintain the ring across all of the switches.
Use the correct type and size of switch, tight connections and use a deep backing box

Problems are:
The heaviest loads on the ring are all located at one point. So if these loads are not at the end of the ring(half way round) then the volt drop will be different in each leg. Doesn't matter too much for light loads but when you have 3 or 4 * 3kW loads in one place switching in and out then you are likely to place short term overload currents on the shortest leg

We had several overheating problems at the terminals and at least one burnt out
Yep well the art of good design here would be to try and spread the points/loads as evenly as you can around the ring...so for instance:...you have both legs running behind a bank of base units with a long worktop with 2 x 2gang socket fronts above...so you break into leg no1 for the 1st point and then break into no2 leg for the 2nd point and so on to ballance and spread the loads as evenly as you can remembering the 2KW max rule of course......the amount of times we`v been on a kitchen ripout and we`v seen all the points on 1 short leg......
 
Re: Integrated appliances - remote switch above worktop, or socket in adjacent cabine

TBH i try to put socket in the cupboard next to the appliance where i can unless they want a spur above, always try not to put a socket directly behind the appliance incase the fuse goes in the plug or you have to disassemble the kitchen to get to it if its intergrated.
 

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