Is Using a Metal Galv Through Box considered Ok ?

[Robinson]

Maybe a silly question but does making a SWA joint with external glands a Galv through box with gasket considered to be satisfactory in terms of Regs 512 & App 5 AD4.
SWA Joint would be accessible but exposed to all weather and possible splashes from a hose?

 

[lamb]

Yes, it should comply with regs.
I would still fill it with resin or magic gel compound though.

 

[johnboy6083]

the galv box lids are flimsy, and even with a gasket, not really IP67, which the CW glands are. I would follow Lambs advice, or gland straight into the equipment ect. Evwen then, to maintain IP rating, a sealing washer, either rubber, fibre or nylon must be used. Rubber is the best option, then nylon.

 

[Engineer54]

the galv box lids are flimsy, and even with a gasket, not really IP67, which the CW glands are. I would follow Lambs advice, or gland straight into the equipment etc. Even then, to maintain IP rating, a sealing washer, either rubber, fibre or nylon must be used. Rubber is the best option, then nylon.

Using the proper cast conduit box lid should be fine, ...it's what should be used when conduit is exposed to the elements!! Just seal up any holes in the back of the box.
Sealing washers are fine but the SWA shrouds should seal over the conduit box spouts pretty well on themselves... OR even use adhesive heat shrink tubing to seal the SWA cable to the conduit box!!

 

[johnboy6083]

ive never seen a cast conduit lid, only flimsy galv ones, even on really old installations. I agree with the shroud over the spout, it should seal for what the OP wants, but im offering advice that can be related to other situations also. To be honest, IMO, a sealing washer shouldnt be needed at all on a threaded entry from below for just splash or jet protection.

What i try to avoid is the situation of, John said that sealing washers are not required, or eng 54 saidd that as long as you heat shrink the gland, no extra protection is needed. We both know that this applies to this situation, and not to glanding onto a glandplate for example, but others reading this may not be so sure.

 

[ackbarthestar]

I personally would not use metal enclosures that are likely to be exposed to the elements due to higher level of condensation, build up of moisture, higher probability of rusting of component parts and connectors caused by changes of temperature.

However, if you do go with the conduit through box, I'd drill a 3mm hole in the bottom / lowest part of the fitting.

 

[Robinson]

Yes, it should comply with regs.
I would still fill it with resin or magic gel compound though.

Never actually used the magic gel. How is it actually applied in this senerio?



These are small 1.5mm SWA cables. 3 in total.

 

[Robinson]

ive never seen a cast conduit lid, only flimsy galv ones, .

Cant say i know what a cast conduit lid is either? whats the difference?

 

[johnboy6083]

im guessing that instead of a lid formed from sheet metal about 1mm-2mm thick, it will be made from cast steel, similar to the conduit boxes themeslves.

 

[ackbarthestar]

Never actually used the magic gel. How is it actually applied in this senerio?



These are small 1.5mm SWA cables. 3 in total.

My preference would be don't bother......... who said that?

Lol, I can just see you trying to fill a through box attached to the wall while simultaneously trying to get the lid on....

I never use jelly compounds if I can help it since the junction becomes non-maintainable. There are cases I have been involved with where corrosion slips in somehow and corrodes the terminations causing failure. Other times when changing ELV lights and the Tx has failed you have to rip the whole adaptable box apart, rendering it useless.

Better to leave the terminations accessible within a IP rated enclosure.

If, however, you are determined to fill your adaptable box with custard, I'd then use a 'T' box and fill from the top..

 

[Robinson]

OOOh ....never seen. Eng 54 where do we get these?

I too agree with the fact of not needing rubber washer on thread of swa. Not sure about the drilling a 3mm hole in box.
i can see the logic, but is this to allow inner box to breath?

 

[Engineer54]

Ive never seen a cast conduit lid, only flimsy galv ones, even on really old installations. I agree with the shroud over the spout, it should seal for what the OP wants, but i'm offering advice that can be related to other situations also. To be honest, IMO, a sealing washer shouldn't be needed at all on a threaded entry from below for just splash or jet protection.

What i try to avoid is the situation of, John said that sealing washers are not required, or eng 54 said that as long as you heat shrink the gland, no extra protection is needed. We both know that this applies to this situation, and not to glanding onto a gland plate for example, but others reading this may not be so sure.

Cast conduit box lids with gasket is the standard box sealing method for exposed conduit systems, and should be available from all good wholesaler outlets.

As for your second paragraph, although i know what your saying, we can only advise on the query being asked. We can't or shouldn't be expected to second guess what others may or may not do in other circumstances with advise given.

I personally would not use metal enclosures that are likely to be exposed to the elements due to higher level of condensation, build up of moisture, higher probability of rusting of component parts and connectors caused by changes of temperature.

However, if you do go with the conduit through box, I'd drill a 3mm hole in the bottom / lowest part of the fitting.

Know what your saying, but exposed complete conduit systems have been used since time immemorial, so a single box shouldn't be a problem in itself. Agree a 3mm drainage hole is advantageous. Nothing to stop the installer encapsulating any connections within the box.

Although i'm not talking about UK weather, i've yet to find a plastic box that can withstand UV degradation for more than a few years, many for a lot less!! Whereas a Galvanised conduit box should last in terms of 10s of years....

 

[telectrix]

the hole is to allow any water thet gets in to get out before it's deep enough to reach the connections.

 

[Robinson]

If, however, you are determined to fill your adaptable box with custard, I'd then use a 'T' box and fill from the top..

Thats sounds fun ! never knew custard done the job.

 

[Darkwood]

Il have to go with Lamb on this one, Galv thru-box, crimped jointing and sealing gel, compound filler with appropriate swa glands and lid and gasket this will give longevity and maintenance free joint. I dug a 10yr old joint i made and was still as good as the day i made it, draw back was digging the gel out but it did what it says on the tin, only issue was gasket had aged and would have failed if wasn't for gel filler.