Kitchen alterations | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Kitchen alterations in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

C

claret73

Well, should be more like a Kitchen rewire but she's skimping on what she's having done...
Ring Final includes downstairs and kitchen. Kitchen appliances include a F/Freezer, Washing Machine, Toaster and Kettle, nothing more than this at the moment.
I'm wondering if to split the circuit and supply the Kitchen from its own circuit as there are spare ways on the CU. Only trouble I'll have doing this is disruption to living space depending where Outgoing/Incoming legs are for circuit as it currently is.

The good thing is the builder is taking back to brick in the kitchen and removing the ceiling, so should be able to clearly see where it all runs...

Would it be better to provide a separate ring for the kitchen? Only from the point of being advantageous for the future if any further additions are required.
 
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It's always preferable to put a kitchen on one or more separate final circuits due to the multitude of electrical appliances in most kitchens these days. It also gives you the opportunity to provide an adequate number of outlets and mount them conveniently, as well as greater potential for additions in the future.
 
And this time Mark, I'm Pre-Testing!!! 'Once Bitten'...
It'll be just as easy to add onto its own circuit once the builder has stripped back the walls and ceiling. Should be able to find the legs into the living spaces then and see how much disruption there would be to adjust it.
 
Just quoting this today. I'm just starting to push myself about so an upwards learning curve of being away from the Contractor. Just looking to fill the gaps in-between the sub contract.

If I separate the circuits and rewire the kitchen, I'd be doing the following given the spec at the moment:
3x US SSO
3x SW FCU's - Fridge Freezer, Hob Extract, Washing Machine
Cooker Control Unit
Cooker Connection Unit
4x TSO
1x 2G Switch - 2w
1x 1G Switch - 2w
Drum 50m T&E 2.5 or 4mm if 32A Radial
Switch drops and strappers.
Steel Capping - Somewhere around 12x lengths (Over estimating) if taking up & down
Ancillaries - Grommets, screws/plugs

Am I underestimating a days work 1st fix? Kitchen Ring and Cooker circuit. It's a small kitchen, but I'd have some resolving to do with separating the circuits and she also wants some conduit in the utility removing. That needs investigating. I'm erring on a day & half...
2nd fix would be straightforward with an EIC to complete, so half a day for that.

2 days in total. Sound OK? I might not be super quick at the moment, but I will be methodical...
 
i'd be inclined to put the fridge/freezer and washing machine on plug & socket. if they need to come out for service/repair, it makes life much simpler, and there's no need to cut the plug off them.
 
You've got 12 back boxes to chase out if I've read your description right, how long do you think you can do that? Then first fix cables? Give yourself 1 1/2 days and tell the customer if you go over that time due to unforeseen hold ups you will charge ÂŁXX per hour but make it cheap. As for the 2nd fix and cert, is 4 hours enough at the speed you work. What if you hit a snag and have to fault find? Quote for six hours and if you finish in four class that as your bonus.
 
I think I would be looking to allow 3 days in total. If the quote seems a little excessive in the customers opinion then at least you have room to move if need be.

Do not leave yourself in a position where you're having to go like the clappers just because your customer is a little tight. You could always explain that you've allowed 3 days in case there are any unforeseen circumstances but will happily reimburse them a (small ;)) amount if you complete early:thumbsup

If you finish in two and a half days then what will you earn for the rest of that day once you've cleaned up packed up and travelled to the next job?

If you're over ambitious then you'll end up having to work into your profit margin. That is when things start going wrong and the customer starts complaining because you've taken far longer than you said :(

Better to say 3 days and take 2 than say 2 and need more.
 
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As I read it your going to have 3 above counter FCU to control those 3 under counter sockets. If you did this then your having a 13amp BS 1362 fuse in the plug top and another in the FCU so I would instead go for 20amp double pole grid switch.

I would think again about over counter switches/FCU for a fridge/freezer, people tend to switch things off without thought and come down in the morning to a defrosted freezer, so just fit a single socket for that.

So the washing machine and I assume spare on a 2X 20amp double pole switches, this will also mean just one back box rather than 3 you had planned.
 
I'm not going to have to do any chasing except sinking the Cooker points in halfway as I'm hoping (to be confirmed) the Builder is plasterboarding. So he'll be taking back to Brick. So all boxes surface fixed. The ceiling will be down too and should have access to joists for cable routing. Therefore I'm looking at 1st fix being straightforward. (He says)...

I'll look at the grid option Malcolm, Thanks...
Time-wise, I think I'll spend half a day investigating where the legs are for the living spaces so that I can split and re-route back to the board. There's conduit which they've back entered into the kitchen and she wants some if not all taking out. Another day to 1st fix the Kitchen (2x Circuits, the lighting exists) and another 6 hours (Thanks Paul M) for 2nd fix & Test. This would include the pre testing I'll do before I start the job...so as has been advised 3 days...

Thanks for all the advice. It's really appreciated!!
 
Thanks for all the replies. Didn't get to quote as the customer is using the Builder who can supply an Electrician. Given her some advice on the Part P side. Good bit of PR as she's keeping me in mind for future work. It was good experience to be sitting down thinking about things anyhow...
 
Didn't get to quote

Still price it and let your customer know what you intended on charging anyway. That way, when the builder stings them for umpteen hundreds more they will realise just how reasonable your prices are AND confirm you secure any future work.

Many threads on here touch on the Builder/Electrician relationship ;)

:thumbsup
 
And this time Mark, I'm Pre-Testing!!! 'Once Bitten'...
It'll be just as easy to add onto its own circuit once the builder has stripped back the walls and ceiling. Should be able to find the legs into the living spaces then and see how much disruption there would be to adjust it.
Sorry for the delay in replying to the thread claret.
Well done matey, the electrician who doesn't learn from his or her mistakes usually has a short life. Ask anyone who's been in the trade for a number of years "How many sparky funerals have you attended?" you will usually find their reply a sobering thought.
 
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