kitchen isolators

[jmc1683]

Hi, just wondering what is the general consensus on isolators in kitchens for appliances, what do most of you do? what I've been doing in places is putting them together on grid plates with 20amp DP switches and grid fuses if necessary. also these days no one wants to see them and they want them put in a cupboard or similar, cant find any proper regs on this but again what is the best practice? also if you have more than 4-5 appliances and the total load is greater than, 20amps or so (if everything was on together, even though unlikely) so just wondering what some of you more experienced and seasoned professionals do..

 

[Octopus]

I always have isolation for all "heavy" kitchen kit available, eg: a DP isolator above the worktop, socket behind washing machine. Never rely on a socket behind anything bigger than a worktop microwave.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

i never stick socket outlets behind any appliance...including washing machines....

a socket outlet in an adjacent cupboard does just fine...

 

[Badged01]

Hi, just wondering what is the general consensus on isolators in kitchens for appliances, what do most of you do?

There is no regulation saying you need a specific isolator for your appliances in the kitchen -- your isolator is the CB in the consumer unit but most customers dont realise this, or even know where the box is!.

Either of your installation options would be suitable. Switch above worktops and socket behind appliance or just socket behind appliance and nothing above worktop. Infact socket doesnt even need to be behind appliance, it could be anywhere close!

My 'preference' is for a switch above the worktop and a socket below to feed the appliance as I want the customer to have an easily visible and readily accessible option to 'locally' isolate. Similar to the cooker switch. Ultimately though go with whatever option the customer wants as both methods conform in my book.

 

[Welchyboy1]

I just usually have the cooker switch and double sockets above the worktop, everything else in cupboards in sensible places and labelled up if needs be

having fcu units all over the place is just ugly and only a last resort for me

 

[Scornio]

I put everything in the cupboards... Including sockets. I like to hide everything and make the customer play hide and seek.

 

[MDJ]

Super grid for me, sockets out of sight and just one grid plate somewhere where the customer is happy to have it.

 

[Guitarist]

i never stick socket outlets behind any appliance...including washing machines....

a socket outlet in an adjacent cupboard does just fine...

Agree with Glenn here. Adjacent cupboard means that the appliance can go back against the wall (as many need to these days). If you use a switch or SFCU above the worktop, then the customer can isolate the appliance without emptying their cupboard.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

and i might like to add that an unswitched outlet for fridges/freezers would be the way....

 

[telectrix]

and i might like to add that an unswitched outlet for fridges/freezers would be the way....

and on it's own circuit, with or without RCBO.

 

[driverman]

I was under the impression that it's good practice NOT to put sockets in cupboards for appliances etc.The reason being being Fred the kitchen fitter or the DIY customer could remove / replace kitchen units without getting involved with any electrics. The other thing is a large hole is required to feed though the moulded plug top. Plug top shouldn't be cut off re manufactures guarantee.
Also a lot easier for the maintenance guy to isolate supply, then pull out the appliance to service as the flex will be long enough. No flapping around to unplug appliance, feed flex plug top though the full to brim cupboard to gain enough flex. I'm sure many of us have been there before!

 

[Guitarist]

I was under the impression that it's good practice NOT to put sockets in cupboards for appliances etc.The reason being being Fred the kitchen fitter or the DIY customer could remove / replace kitchen units without getting involved with any electrics. The other thing is a large hole is required to feed though the moulded plug top. Plug top shouldn't be cut off re manufactures guarantee.
Also a lot easier for the maintenance guy to isolate supply, then pull out the appliance to service as the flex will be long enough. No flapping around to unplug appliance, feed flex plug top though the full to brim cupboard to gain enough flex. I'm sure many of us have been there before!

That's why they are fitted in the fabric of the building, with a hole cut in the back of the cupboard.

 

[driverman]

By that , do you mean the actual socket is at the back of the socket?

 

[Welchyboy1]

I was under the impression that it's good practice NOT to put sockets in cupboards for appliances etc.The reason being being Fred the kitchen fitter or the DIY customer could remove / replace kitchen units without getting involved with any electrics. The other thing is a large hole is required to feed though the moulded plug top. Plug top shouldn't be cut off re manufactures guarantee.
Also a lot easier for the maintenance guy to isolate supply, then pull out the appliance to service as the flex will be long enough. No flapping around to unplug appliance, feed flex plug top though the full to brim cupboard to gain enough flex. I'm sure many of us have been there before!

yes but now fred the kitchen fitter is a domestic installer so he's fine with that!

 

[dave992]

just a quick point, i know my ex boss alway said that all electrical switch must be installed on the fabric of the building and no socket or switched within cupboards?