LBC notification | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss LBC notification in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

T

tawraste

hi all,
been looking at the list of notifiable and non-notifable works, and was wondering if someone would be able to clarify some things for me please?
according to this list (courtesy of richard burns - thanks!):

Notifiable work from Part P guide.pdf


a damaged cable can be replaced and is not notifiable.

my questions are:
1) the cable can be replaced so long as it is of the same current carrying capacity and follows the same route - how rigid is this? what if the cable was, for example, 6 or 12 inches away from it's original route?

2) does this rule apply to kitchens and bathrooms?

a friend of mine is a kitchen fitter and has asked me if i would replace a damaged cooker cable. he has also asked if whilst i'm at it would i mind moving the cooker switch over a foot to the right.
i have not even gone to look at this possible job yet because if it needs notifying then the price is obviously gonna go up as i am not a member of a registered body yet (still studying, then reading this forum and studying more).
if this would need notifying then i'll recommend him to get a registered guy in as notifying for a bs7671 qualified person is £150 in my area.

thanks again,

tawraste
 
If i was ---- its not the original design as by moving its position may bring it into conflict with other things so if it needs re-assesing for its location it involves someone clever like a part pee person to plan it, design it, install it and notify it.
 
IMO, it's more of a repair job, so would not bother notifying unless the cooker point were to be changed for one with a socket outlet, or moved more than a few inches. a MWC should completed, though . bear in mind that if moving cooker point, you may end up with the cable drop from above being outside safe zone. ( not always a bad thing as kitchen fitters always tend to drill within safe zones.LOL.)
 
Last edited:
if the cooker cable comes vertically down and you go a foot horizontally, yo need to fit a blank plate over the original position ( and making your joint accessible ) to preserve the safe zones, or chase new cable directly down to new point.
 
i think that regardless of the location of the damage, a whole new cable would be better than jointing from the damage site. i'd feel happier knowing no screws or anything are working their way loose!
 
It is assumed that the original cable has been selected and its route designed to comply with regs. If you are replacing like-for-like then nothing has changed. As soon as you make it longer/shorter, or move its position (even a small amount), then you have "redesigned" the system in some way, however small, and should sign to that effect.
Are you able to test the circuit afterwards?
 

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