LED spots power from switch

[jeeez31]

Hi Guys, just got a few concerns with powering my new LED spots in an extension I've build, I really hope someone can advise me as I have been given conflicting info!!

Ok so I've run all the cables (1.5mm t&e) within the 50mm void between celotex and felt, the sparks that has wired the original kitchen (2006 extension) has looped in at the switches so there is a permanant live which they have used to link to the switches and neutrals all commoned together in choc block. So in essence the switch back box is a jb. I've run 2 cables as will be led's on dimmers (6 on each dimmer) I hoped to simply chase in a 45 ish mm back box and do all the wiring i.e piggy backing the permanent lives to power each switch and joining the neutrals and earths in a proper connecter NOT choc block.

This seemed to be the logical place to run my cables to for my new lights, I am not a qualified sparkie so I called one in as I need bco sign off for the electrics...... The sparks said I can't power the new circuit from the switch (jb) and that I need to run a seperate supply from the fb??? This will be a massive pain in the arse!!

I also planned to extend the ring for extra sockets (above worktop) I wanted to run these horizontally in either plastic or steel conduit chased into wall level to existing sockets. (main switch in fb is an RCD)

Is the sparks correct with regard to the light power?
Is it within the regs to run horizonal cables between sockets?

Hope this all makes sense

Your help is SOOO much appreciated

David

 

[telectrix]

Hi Guys, just got a few concerns with powering my new LED spots in an extension I've build, I really hope someone can advise me as I have been given conflicting info!!

Ok so I've run all the cables (1.5mm t&e) within the 50mm void between celotex and felt, the sparks that has wired the original kitchen (2006 extension) has looped in at the switches so there is a permanant live which they have used to link to the switches and neutrals all commoned together in choc block. So in essence the switch back box is a jb. I've run 2 cables as will be led's on dimmers (6 on each dimmer) I hoped to simply chase in a 45 ish mm back box and do all the wiring i.e piggy backing the permanent lives to power each switch and joining the neutrals and earths in a proper connecter NOT choc block.

This seemed to be the logical place to run my cables to for my new lights, I am not a qualified sparkie so I called one in as I need bco sign off for the electrics...... The sparks said I can't power the new circuit from the switch (jb) and that I need to run a seperate supply from the fb??? This will be a massive pain in the arse!!

I also planned to extend the ring for extra sockets (above worktop) I wanted to run these horizontally in either plastic or steel conduit chased into wall level to existing sockets. (main switch in fb is an RCD)

Is the sparks correct with regard to the light power? get another sparks' opinion
Is it within the regs to run horizonal cables between sockets? perfectly acceptable. no need for conduit either as long as RCD protected.

Hope this all makes sense

Your help is SOOO much appreciated

David

my comments in red

 

[jeeez31]

Telectrix, thanks so much for the reply....

Ok I'll get a second opinion, just out of interest is there actually anything wrong with connecting at the switch, I can't understand why the sparks said it can't be done, especially as an outside light has been connected using this method??

Ok brilliant re the horizontal cable run that makes my life easier seeing that I've already border the skeeling!!!

One last thing.... The wife has just said she wants an outside socket aghhhhhh is there any way I can run the cable for it without unscrewing the ceiling?? Is it permissible to run vertically from last socket down to floor level and along to where it needs drilling through, I.e is this a safe zone??

Thanks so much for any help, I really can't stress how grateful I am for your time!!

David

 

[telectrix]

Telectrix, thanks so much for the reply....

Ok I'll get a second opinion, just out of interest is there actually anything wrong with connecting at the switch, I can't understand why the sparks said it can't be done, especially as an outside light has been connected using this method??

Ok brilliant re the horizontal cable run that makes my life easier seeing that I've already border the skeeling!!!

One last thing.... The wife has just said she wants an outside socket aghhhhhh is there any way I can run the cable for it without unscrewing the ceiling?? Is it permissible to run vertically from last socket down to floor level and along to where it needs drilling through, I.e is this a safe zone?? the safe zone is only vertically down from the existing socket. you can't then change direction. ask your 2nd opinion sparks to fit your outside socket to the regs. and safely.

Thanks so much for any help, I really can't stress how grateful I am for your time!!

David

comments in red.

 

[HandySparks]

Quite a good idea to put an isolating switch for an outside socket. In which case, put it somewhere on the horizontal run, which then puts the run in a safe zone.