Lifting glued T&G chipboard

[Donkeybrains]

The prctice these days is to D4 glue 22mm T&G chipboard together and to the joists. Then follow with nails or screws. Has anyone tried lifting these boards afterwards?

How do you do it without ripping the joists?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dustydazzler]

my solution is get a chippie to do it. then if there's any problems, it's his fault, not yours.

I have tried getting a chippie in for pre rewire prep to get flooring up and they aren't interested , they all say its too much agro and not worth the headache

 

[nicebutdim]

I’ve used the drill kits with the plastic laid in plugs before.
About 8 plugs in one house across two bedrooms.
They just lie in loose on a rebated edge. Not fixed… so luckily most of the holes ended up inside a built in wardrobe, or under furniture… not getting walked on.

Some provide plastic plugs, whereas others have steel plates to bond into place. Often wondered which (if either) was the better option.

 

[freddo]

Some provide plastic plugs, whereas others have steel plates to bond into place. Often wondered which (if either) was the better option.

I've used both types, haven't had any issues with either. I don't prefer one over the other.

 

[swaRRR]

I am getting well over £1 per mtr for red black twin n earth

Why are they buying this? For nostalgia or weigh in?

 

[Dustydazzler]

Why are they buying this? For nostalgia or weigh in?

I really don't know , and I honestly don't care

Some bloke paid me nearly £100 the other day for 40mtrs of 4mm red/black T&e that I pulled out of a job

The mind boggles as he could easily go to Screwfix and get a 50mtr drum for less

 

[nicebutdim]

Why are they buying this? For nostalgia or weigh in?

Most likely to pass new work off as existing circuits.

Why else would you install 20 year old cable at higher cost than new?

 

[Dustydazzler]

Most likely to pass new work off as existing circuits.

Why else would you install 20 year old cable at higher cost than new?

My guess was pure Nostalgia and not wanting to mix colours

But if you could get your hands on enough old cable you could wire an entire house is old colours and say it was done pre Part Pee ?

 

[nicebutdim]

My guess was pure Nostalgia and not wanting to mix colours

But if you could get your hands on enough old cable you could wire an entire house is old colours and say it was done pre Part Pee ?

Nostalgia and the fitting of NOS parts is one thing, but I don't buy it in this case - especially when using old colours might be considered a means of bypassing regulations. Do you make many sales to NI, where Part P doesn't exist? Somehow I doubt it.

My father produced some old coloured cable when I was rewiring their house. I don't think he considered for one second that adding 20 years to newly installed cables was anything other than a good idea, when it might save me a few quid. Must ask if he still has it and get it on ebay.

 

[OnlQQker]

I've always found that is not the best solution unless you batten all the edges after a year or two the chipboard distorts and leaves a slightly sunk patch in the floor

Not if you screw in a centre timber as well (I don't use baton either, normally 3x2 turned on side, never has an issue yet!). Sometimes if possible I will fix to original joists, it all depends on how big a hole you need.
Also I use 'no more nails on underside of timbers that sale at least 150mm past the edges, then screw down through existing board and hope I don't need to take it back up again in the future (if I can get them in horizontal then I'll make a star 'X' using the same methods. Yet still fill in the horizontals with bit of wood along edges. Hope this makes sense, I'm not very good at explaining stuff.
I only use circular saw though set to 1 mm of final board depth just in case a pipe is tight against underneath of board, in the video he relies on a multi saw, but copper is soft and is easily nicked. the hole in board then bangs out easily enough though without causing damage.

 

[nicebutdim]

I generally go through boards with a mini circular saw, making several passes if I've no idea of depth. Don't think I'll ever become overconfident about going through floors due to the number of times I've found pipes tight to the underside.

The idea of a solid board cutter appeals to me - so much so that I picked one up cheap on an Amazon warehouse deal, but haven't yet used it as (so far) there has always been a more attractive option.

 

[Donkeybrains]

Glued chipboard floors shouldn't be nailed or screwed after, or they will start squeaking after a few years.

The board manufacturers advice is screw and glue.

 

[Donkeybrains]

I really don't know , and I honestly don't care

Some bloke paid me nearly £100 the other day for 40mtrs of 4mm red/black T&e that I pulled out of a job

The mind boggles as he could easily go to Screwfix and get a 50mtr drum for less

I know what he was up to, doing work that looks as if it was done years ago. The change in colours is a good give away.

 

[Donkeybrains]

Most likely to pass new work off as existing circuits.

Why else would you install 20 year old cable at higher cost than new?

Ha missed you, snap.

 

[UNG]

Not if you screw in a centre timber as well (I don't use baton either, normally 3x2 turned on side, never has an issue yet!). Sometimes if possible I will fix to original joists, it all depends on how big a hole you need.
Also I use 'no more nails on underside of timbers that sale at least 150mm past the edges, then screw down through existing board and hope I don't need to take it back up again in the future (if I can get them in horizontal then I'll make a star 'X' using the same methods. Yet still fill in the horizontals with bit of wood along edges. Hope this makes sense, I'm not very good at explaining stuff.
I only use circular saw though set to 1 mm of final board depth just in case a pipe is tight against underneath of board, in the video he relies on a multi saw, but copper is soft and is easily nicked. the hole in board then bangs out easily enough though without causing damage.

Your post is very informative and it is always interesting to understand how others in the trade do things,
I have used a similar method many years ago before using the Routabout but found battening round pipes a bit of a faf and time consuming or not being able to batten it out properly because of pipes running along the edge of the hole. I still take out floor sections on some jobs when I need access close to a wall and rather than a straight cut I cut in at an angle so the piece that is removed can if needed be dropped back into the hole and shimmed round the edges before refixing if getting battens in is difficult
I have often thought that the Routabout rings are expensive and in the last few years the price has significantly increased but your post has actually made me think that the Routabout system is still extremely cost effective when you analyse the materials and time taken using your method.
Ok there is some cost initially with the Routabout system and occasionally having to buy a new cutter, the router I have is also used for other jobs so not an exclusive purchase to use the Routabout system it may be different if it was for the sole use of the Routabout
As with most things there are pros and cons to all methods of doing a job and no one method is necessarily the defacto method although we can all pick up tips and tricks from the way others work

 

[Donkeybrains]

I shall carry out a test. I have two Wolf Easi joist samples. Ill get a length of P5, glue and screw leave a few days then take a pry bar to the board to simulate lifting. Damaging the board isnt the issue they are cheap. My query is does the lifing take a layer off the Easi joist at the same time.