Light switch replacement (lights flickering)

[MadSapper]

Hi,

Friend asked me to check out their light switch cause the kitchen lights were flickering and the faceplate was getting hot. They sent the photos below to show what it looked like, obvious issue is the common looking fried, which I put down to a loose connection, hence the flickering lights.

To replace the front plate, all the old wires go in the same place on the new faceplate as they are the old (red to common, brown to L1, 'neutral' to L2). The earths will obviously be terminated into the metal lug on the faceplate rather than just hanging in that connector block. What I am confused about is the black wire on the incoming cable, has just been snipped back and left in the cable sheath. Should it be exposed and put into a connector block like a vargo?

TIA.

 

[westward10]

I would personally put the black into a Wago.

 

[MadSapper]

I would personally put the black into a Wago.

Could definitely have read back over my post to catch any mistakes before posting it! I'll get that done then. Other than that all looks good? Cheers

 

[brianmoooore]

The new switch may be marked L1, L2 and L3 instead of C, L1 and L2.
If this is the case C = L1, L1 = L2 and L2 - L3.
Definitely black in a Wago (or the choc block that's currently on the earth) and the earth into the terminal for it on the faceplate, if the new switch has one.

 

[littlespark]

I think you know already, but the blue isn’t a “neutral”

At least you’ve got plenty spare cable to cut off the damaged part and terminate them neatly.

 

[MadSapper]

The new switch may be marked L1, L2 and L3 instead of C, L1 and L2.
If this is the case C = L1, L1 = L2 and L2 - L3.
Definitely black in a Wago (or the choc block that's currently on the earth) and the earth into the terminal for it on the faceplate, if the new switch has one.

Spot on, exactly what I done. Used the chock block for now but will replace it with a Wago.

I think you know already, but the blue isn’t a “neutral”

At least you’ve got plenty spare cable to cut off the damaged part and terminate them neatly.

Yeah aware it should be marked up and have told my friend that it's not a neutral. There was indeed plenty of cable, in fact I was baffled by how much cable was there!

Thanks all

 

[Teddy Lop]

Given the obvious limited capacity of whoever fitted the switch and who knows what else, I'd be keen to check the "earth" is definitely connected to earth.