lighting design

a.e.s · Sep 2, 2009

I am wondering what people techniques people use when wiring lighting circuits in various scenarios. I know it is quite a big subject with a lot of considerations, but I am just after something brief. Do people try and achieve certain lux levels, or do they just look at an empty room and guesstimate what is required (like I do most of the time). The reason I ask is because first of all I am in the process of wiring a large open plan dining/ living room and I will be wiring lv downlights with 2 switch wires, but thinking about what I had planned off the job it seems as though there are a lot of lights, (roughly about 15 in total spaced at about 1300mm) what sort of lux levels should I be trying to achieve (also could some be kind enough to refresh my memory on how to work out lux, I cant find my old college books

) Also in a commercial situation again I was wondering what lux level I am aiming for. I am wiring a funeral parlour and the lights have been specced by a wholesaler who is taking the michael out of the building contractor and just speccing as many expensive light fittings he can get away with. ( seriously, in some rooms he has specced so many thorn twin fluorescent fittingsyou cannot physically fit them in!!!)

Spudnik · Sep 2, 2009

Hi mate, hows the drill?

Anyhow, i generally allow approx 1 meter between downlights.

If its in a living/dining room you could put two switches in and alternate the supplies to each fitting, so in effect you get half the lights, one way or the other, or all the lights.

You could split them up a little more and just install dimmers.

As for the FP, the shop i am doing had Megaman design the lighting layout and they were speccing hundreds of them!

But then they would as they would be supplying them.

a.e.s · Sep 2, 2009

Hi mate, thanks for the reply. The drill is fantastic thanks, it currently takes pride of place in the back of my van right next to the new fluke tester I have just treated myself too (so what if the children wont be getting quite so many toys for christmas lol). with regards to the post, that is what I am thinking, 2 switch wires and install dimmers, it is just that I was thinking about it when I couldnt sleep the other night (as you do when you are as sad as I am!!) and it seemed like quite a lot. Anyhow it is all planned out now and it works with the joists and plan of the living area, so they will get what they are given and be happy about it lol maybe next time he will think twice before saying 'oh, just do what you want

'

Spudnik · Sep 2, 2009

What you have come up with will be fine.

If you can, use decent down lights where the lamp is flush with the bezel, rather than behind a thick retaining ring.

That way you will get a little bit more spread from the lamp.

a.e.s · Sep 2, 2009

Aurora twist and lock all the way, with aurora transformers. In my experience you can not go wrong with them, and the transformers are guaranteed for something like 5 years, so not going back every 5 minutes. Also very easy to change the lamps without having to ruin the paint. ( god, I am starting to sound like a rep, I had better shut up!!!!

).

Spudnik · Sep 2, 2009

too much time in the suppliers

sparks1234 · Sep 2, 2009

I know you have already done it but the best thing to do is have a discussion with the client to see what they want in the way of light levels in a house, I have worked on many jobs where the lighting has been designed by so called lighting designers and quite honetly they have been either rediculesly bright or dim.

As regards to to commercial ligthing levels, there are may depending on the type of work being carried out, warehouse is dimmer than offices which is dimmer than for workbenches etc etc, but its not only the light levels there are also different lighting guides and the latest is LG7 which gives direct and indirect light onto the working plane. Also you may find that the local authority will not give permission unless the lighting achieves a minimum efficecy, quite often 45 L P C W.

hope that helps