Machine workshop install.

[Knobhead]

I don’t like drilling steelwork but at times, needs must. As E54 said so long as you’re not chopping great holes in the steel there should be no problem. (When the building falls down it was nothing to do with me).

As to the floor mounted conduit, have they asked you to alter it? If they have then go overhead with your new stuff. If they don’t want it altered then it’s not you’re problem, but it would be good to point it out.

I’ve got to admit I do like playing with Mechano (sorry Unistrut).

 

[Guest123]

There really is so many different kinds of fixing gear around, any wholesaler should be able to source what you need.

These are the aforementioned 'window brackets'.

 

[ackbarthestar]

The RSJ's and angle irons are are turned to face the inside of the building. Panels of an 'unknown' material fill in the spaces. So you're left with just the faces of the girdered supports. Drilling and self tappers may be the only solution.

 

[Dan the spark]

I'm with dhes, window brackets all the way. Will save u a lot of time......and drill bits

 

[Darkwood]

The RSJ's and angle irons are are turned to face the inside of the building. Panels of an 'unknown' material fill in the spaces. So you're left with just the faces of the girdered supports. Drilling and self tappers may be the only solution.

As ive already mentioned; Window brackets are unsuitable for your needs here due to the approx 1" surround that sticks out on the fixing side, what you need is a bracket like a squashed Z which bolts to strut and lips over girder (their name eludes me), one of these either side of girder give you a fixing that is the same as a window bracket but without it interfering with the fixing surface of the strut.....

@Dan the spark ??? if your still going through drill bits when drilling RSJ's your either using the wrong kind of drills or not lubing them sufficiently or even not controlling the speed properly, i drill alot or steel from strut to girders on a regular basis, using a pilot bit sometimes helps too and a pack of good quality speed bits should give you a few years repeated use, ive just sharpened a 6mm bit for the first time after doing approx 80 holes in girderwork in the space of 2weeks. Agree the pilot bits do snap occasionally but thats due to the drills torque control been too heavy for such a small bit.

 

[benji]

what about HILTI ? row of 6mm fixings fit hanger brk install a few rows busbar trunking c/w tap-off boxes jobs done

 

[ackbarthestar]

what about HILTI ? row of 6mm fixings fit hanger brk install a few rows busbar trunking c/w tap-off boxes jobs done

If you are thinking about the HILTI gun then I considered that but any accumulated dust might well be disturbed. So put that one to one side.

 

[benji]

ok then how about self drilling screws how about a few photo,s a picture is worth a thousand words

 

[ackbarthestar]

ok then how about self drilling screws how about a few photo,s a picture is worth a thousand words

I think I have considered self-tappers already.

Good idea, if my preliminary estimate is acceptable then when I go back to do a full survey i'll get some photos.

 

[UNG]

Surface mounted across the floor of a busy machine shop ?!

Unless they are in a walk way then don't see what the problem is

As i normally work on the larger projects, i've always had to consult the Structural Engineer on site, whenever it's been needed to drill into this material or that material, or have them calculate ceiling strength for any heavy point loading etc.

Now, whenever a query as to drilling structural steel columns/beams or struts has been made, i can't think of a single time it's ever been refused . I remember asking once or twice, what's the problem with drilling structural steel? They just laugh and say what would you expect to happen to 1/2'' / 3/4'' steel, by drilling four 14mm clearance holes and filling them with a high tension steel nut and bolt?? Different if you were wanting to drill a 4'' or 6'' hole for a pipe, or cut a section out of the column or beam etc, of the same diameter, that would need looking into!!! I guess it's the same with boring holes in wooden joists of a house, except your not even filling them, apart from cables that is...lol!!

So it seems to be another of those myth's that abound ours and others in the construction game!!! But i or the contractor still have to get there OK before drilling these things!! lol!!!

I've had a few sites where they have insisted on the holes being drilled a minimum distance from the edge of the beams

Nice one....
We were always taught never to drill into supporting RSJs and the like.

It is easier on a lot of sites to have a no drill policy than to have someone drill something they should not

The RSJ's and angle irons are are turned to face the inside of the building. Panels of an 'unknown' material fill in the spaces. So you're left with just the faces of the girdered supports. Drilling and self tappers may be the only solution.

Have a look at Lindaptors Steelwork Fixings - Products - Lindapter I have used these quite a lot for clamping various things to structural steel, I would be surprised if there was nothing to suit your needs.