View the thread, titled "Mounting a flood light on a tree!?" which is posted in UK Electrical Forum on Electricians Forums.

rolyberkin

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Arms
Have a client who is asking for a floodlight to be mounted on a tree to light up a car park. The tree is well established. Having conflicting thoughts on this, has anyone done it and if so how.
 
The closest I came to a solution I would be happy with was to mount the light on a board with a couple of strips of timber at the top and bottom with a kind of crescent cut out so it could sit flat against the trunk. To secure it the solution I felt was best was to put a chain in hose pipe at the top and bottom and to then secure it with springs to allow for growth, leaving some excess on the chains for adjustment over time.

I must admit, I'd've just screwed it straight onto the tree with copper fixings (joke!), without a seconds thought.

Instead of a chain, how about a ratchet strap, bomber fixing and you could adjust it as the girth increases?
 
I must admit, I'd've just screwed it straight onto the tree with copper fixings (joke!), without a seconds thought.

Instead of a chain, how about a ratchet strap, bomber fixing and you could adjust it as the girth increases?

That could work, but is likely to require more frequent adjustment. Something with some give in it like a spring or bungee cord is ideal because you don't need to tend to it every year.
 
Is your Mum in Law the arborist?
Nope. He is actually one of the tradesmen she uses that doesn't try to screw people over.

The original fixing screws corroded and sheared off when the first one's were taken off. These have caused part of the trunk to die not helped by the damage to the bark when the brackets were took off.

This damage is roughly 12 inches from ground level and the trees need to come down before they fall down.
 
Bungee cord would perish after a few years outside, it's not the most stable of materials when exposed to UV light and weather.
 
drill some 20mm holes in the trunk, fill with weedkiller, then insert rawlbolts secured with Gorilla glue. ( this post directed @Pete999 to get rid of his pesky trees overgrown weeds)

we suffer from trees in a neighbour's back garden. 60 ft. high. 3 conifers, 2 holly, and 1 dunno what. the crap they drop is horrendous, our shed rotting from it . only + side is it's a home for wood pigeons, so the .22 gets some excercise.
 

Jack handy quote, "if trees could scream would we be so cavalier in cutting them down - well we might if they screamed all the time!"

Great suggestions from experienced members on here. This will be a searched thread for all future enquiries. Good that so many have correct information from experts.
 
We have a large parking area at the back of ours and one of the properties has a row of large conifers on their boundary. These tress have been overhanging for years and you can't park there due to bird crap and tree sap really screwing up your paint job.

Took intervention from the council to get them trimmed nack.
 
drill some 20mm holes in the trunk, fill with weedkiller, then insert rawlbolts secured with Gorilla glue. ( this post directed @Pete999 to get rid of his pesky trees overgrown weeds)

we suffer from trees in a neighbour's back garden. 60 ft. high. 3 conifers, 2 holly, and 1 dunno what. the crap they drop is horrendous, our shed rotting from it . only + side is it's a home for wood pigeons, so the .22 gets some excercise.
Does the weed killer kill em quick?
 
might take longer than you think. sometimes could be 20 years, so long past us being rotten corpses. :eek::eek::eek:.
 
cheaper to run, and good excercise for the over 70's.
upload_2018-11-4_14-50-43.jpeg
 

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