Moving cooker switch within prescribed zone

[RobMark]

Hi,

With respect to the cooker switch only. If I moved it 400mm to the left by extending the T&E from its original position using crimps, then tile over the original back box, would it satisfy regs by maintaining the modified circuit within the prescribed zone (assuming all other rules are satisfied)?

I’m aware it will create a new zone vertical to the new switch position, and the outlet will be moved to conform. Its just the movement of the cooker switch I need clarity on. (Moving is the only option available, a new chase is not possible).

 

[davesparks]

How does the cable get to the current position?

 

[Markyd]

If the existing cable runs vertically up or down then you will need to keep the back box and fit a blank plate as there will be no indication there is a cable in the wall......or rip it out and run new cable

 

[DefyG]

Only by doing as Markyd says by fitting a blank plate on existing box so that the existing vertical cable run is obvious.

 

[RobMark]

If the existing cable runs vertically up or down then you will need to keep the back box and fit a blank plate as there will be no indication there is a cable in the wall......or rip it out and run new cable

Thanks for the response. The existing cooker switch has the outlet beneath and the extractor take off point above (see image). So by moving the cooker switch to the left, I should be able to bury the old backbox without a plate as the vertical zone should still be preserved?

 

[littlespark]

Still in the zone.

I’d be inclined to make the joint below the worktop, take it to the side then up to new switch.

Then joint is accessible to a point… have to remove cooker, but it’ll be there.

Only good if cable comes from below.

 

[Markyd]

How are you going to extend the cables to be buried

 

[littlespark]

How are you going to extend the cables to be buried

OP mentions crimps.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Which is fine if they are good ones, fitted with the right tool. I've seen no-name yellows fitted with A.N.Other brand ratchet tool overheat at 30A, but you're probably bored of hearing me spouting about dodgy crimps in fixed wiring.

 

[littlespark]

Which is fine if they are good ones, fitted with the right tool. I've seen no-name yellows fitted with A.N.Other brand ratchet tool overheat at 30A, but you're probably bored of hearing me spouting about dodgy crimps in fixed wiring.

No no, carry on.
We all love a good yarn about dodgy crimps in fixed wiring.
We’re all ears.

Someone else shop with A.N Other hardware?
College tutor 30 odd years ago used to shop there…

 

[RobMark]

Still in the zone.

I’d be inclined to make the joint below the worktop, take it to the side then up to new switch.

Then joint is accessible to a point… have to remove cooker, but it’ll be there.

Only good if cable comes from below.

Cable comes from above and there is no slack to pull down further.

Nonetheless, its great to get confirmation from you guys that I'm within the regs doing it this way. I'll crimp and maybe solder.

There may be a removable splashback going behind the cooker allowing access for checking the joint in the future. Ultimately, I'd prefer no joints on this circuit, but sometimes you have to work with what you have.

 

[littlespark]

What’s above? Joint in attic?

I’m just thinking about the future if there’s a fault and no one can figure out where cables go if there’s no obvious sign of a joint box.

 

[RobMark]

What’s above? Joint in attic?

I’m just thinking about the future if there’s a fault and no one can figure out where cables go if there’s no obvious sign of a joint box.

The cable is stuck firm in the chase. Its been plastered over with no channel cover. I was hoping to put a junction box in the loft and feed a new 6mm down to the isolator.