New 16A Oven and 30A fuse Cooker Circuit

[KPNUTS]

I am preparing for new kitchen and have a new 16amp built in single oven to replace the existing freestanding double oven.
The existing oven is hard wired -this enters wall in a blanked off fitting-which i assume runs up to the Cooker Socket which has an on off switch and a plug socket too (which i assume is a normal plug socket). Cooker in consumer box is on 30A fuse.

My question is will the 16A oven when hardwired to this existing circuit need to be protected by a lower fuse fitted to prevent damage to the cooker?

I am trying to ascertain how big a job this will be for electrician, oven fitter once i have installed the kitchen.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Everyone has a different opinion on this based on various factors , I have no issue connection a new cooker to the existing supply as the chance of O.L is slim to nil.
However to adhere to the manufactures instructions the oven fitters may insist that the supply be 16a.
While the existing cables can be used the fuse / mcb will need changing to a 16a.
If you have plug in fuses its a simple fix , if you have a mcb board then you can buy a new 16a mcb if they are still made. if not you might have to source one via ebay

 

[KPNUTS]

Everyone has a different opinion on this based on various factors , I have no issue connection a new cooker to the existing supply as the chance of O.L is slim to nil.
However to adhere to the manufactures instructions the oven fitters may insist that the supply be 16a.
While the existing cables can be used the fuse / mcb will need changing to a 16a.
If you have plug in fuses its a simple fix , if you have a mcb board then you can buy a new 16a mcb if they are still made. if not you might have to source one via ebay

Thankyou for responding, the consumer box has the wylex type 30A fuses, but i can only see 15A,20A and above replacements-no 16A? Is this normal, would i use the electrician just use a 15 A one and not need to replace/rewire anything.

 

[brianmoooore]

That sounds like an old 3036 fusebox! Nothing to do with the cooker per se, but it's time that was donated to a museum and replaced by something that gives a little more protection to you, your house and anyone else who comes into your house.
These things really shouldn't still be in use two decades into the twenty first century.

 

[Soi disant]

if you have a mcb board then you can buy a new 16a mcb if they are still made. if not you might have to source one via ebay

Unless there's space there or nearby for a 1- or 2-module enclosure.....

 

[Dustydazzler]

That sounds like an old 3036 fusebox! Nothing to do with the cooker per se, but it's time that was donated to a museum and replaced by something that gives a little more protection to you, your house and anyone else who comes into your house.
These things really shouldn't still be in use two decades into the twenty first century.

Quite a few times when I see the old 3036 boards they are fronted now by a 30ma stand alone RCD which must have been added at some stage in the last 10-20 years. , which atleast gives the entire house RCD protection.

 

[brianmoooore]

Quite a few times when I see the old 3036 boards they are fronted now by a 30ma stand alone RCD which must have been added at some stage in the last 10-20 years. , which atleast gives the entire house RCD protection.

Indeed, and I've fitted many of them. But not in the last thirty years.
All that I've been back to are now long gone.

 

[LastManOnline]

My question is will the 16A oven when hardwired to this existing circuit need to be protected by a lower fuse fitted to prevent damage to the cooker?

By asking this question it indicates you have not seen anything in the manufacturers instructions that says 16amp circuit protection needs to be provided.
In that case you can use the existing cable without downsizing the existing circuit protection. As "dusty dazzler" mentioned there is no risk of overload as its an "end of line" appliance

 

[timhoward]

Quite a few times when I see the old 3036 boards they are fronted now by a 30ma stand alone RCD which must have been added at some stage in the last 10-20 years. , which atleast gives the entire house RCD protection.

I'm actually still finding a fair few without RCD in this area. This one had a useless standalone RCBO which only fed an abandoned shower circuit, bare ends taped up in loft still live. I just managed to get a Fusebox RCBO board in the space. I wanted to fit a Hager flush mount with adjustable depth but the customer didn't want it 'on show'.
@KPNUTS Off topic but if you've got something that looks a bit like that (maybe with fuses like the red one not breakers) then I'd give some thought to getting it upgraded, as the whole premise of older boards is to protect the wiring rather than protect people from coming into contact with electricity. By contrast newer designs do save lives as they check electricity is where it's supposed to be, notice any that is missing and might be electrocuting someone, and within a fraction of a second they automatically turn the power off. It wouldn't be that expensive in the scheme of things, especially if you consider the cost/year over the lifetime of the new consumer unit.

 

[brianmoooore]

That does look a tight fit! The original Wylex box is a C2 fail on account of the missing fuse cover. Even if the lone rewireable had been replaced by a plug in MCB, the cover is still required with the front face removed for the MCBs to project through.