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xfiles999

Hi there,

In my small utility closet I replaced a white 20A (DP i believe) light switch for a black nickel coloured 20A DP light switch merely for the look of it to match the rest of my switches. I noticed on the old switch the LED light would only come on when the light was turned on. With the new switch the LED light is constantly on even if I have turned off the light that it controls.
Did I wire it incorrectly? I'm attaching a pic of the white switch before I disconnected it and a pic of the black nickel switch after i wired it in.

Separately that utility room has an extractor fan inside it. My bathroom light switch is also 20A DP but when I turn the bathroom light on the extractor fan comes on (as it should) and when I turn the bathroom light off the extractor fan switches off. The utility closet also has an extractor fan and i'm guessing this is why there was a 20A DP switch there but the extractor fan doesn't come on when the light is switched on. Am I right to say that the 20A DP switch is there to turn the light on and also something else...i.e. In this case the extractor fan? I was told by someone that the original 20A DP light switch never turned the extractor on in the utility cabinet, I just don't know then why they would install a 20A DP switch to turn a lightbulb on as opposed to using a regular switch. I remember the extractor fan coming on a few years ago I think I am just being fobbed off since I am still within the warranty period for my flat. By the way there is a washing machine in the utility closet hence why there is an extractor fan there which is always on the minimum setting and flicking the light switch is supposed to take it into Boost Mode like it does in the bathroom and kitchen just doesn't want to go into boost mode in the utility closet when I turn the light on.

Amy help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
 

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Yes you have connected the new switch incorrectly, to the point of it being potential dangerous without the cpc connected. For this I would strongly recommend calling an electrician to rectify the problem.

As to why a 20A DP switch has been fitted in the first place, if the switch is not in the room it may have been done so that the neon indicator allows you to see that the light has been left on. Or it may have been done to avoid the installation of a seperate fan isolator switch (unnecessarily so in my opinion)
 
Strange the use of DP switches for lights in the first place?

maybe it feeds an outside light ( with or without PIR) and it's D/P to allow for isolation of both poles when the B&Q fitting lets in water and takes out the RCD?
 
Yes you have connected the new switch incorrectly, to the point of it being potential dangerous without the cpc connected. For this I would strongly recommend calling an electrician to rectify the problem.

As to why a 20A DP switch has been fitted in the first place, if the switch is not in the room it may have been done so that the neon indicator allows you to see that the light has been left on. Or it may have been done to avoid the installation of a seperate fan isolator switch (unnecessarily so in my opinion)

Gets on my ----, I bet he would of paid a plumber to install a new gas appliance though. Gas= death, electric=death get some one qualified to do the job.
 
Gets on my ----, I bet he would of paid a plumber to install a new gas appliance though. Gas= death, electric=death get some one qualified to do the job.

Exactly, the amount of people who fancy a dabble with electrics then balls it up and want help for FREE.

I tell people nothing of interest from now on, not when I'm laying out a fortune on everything I need to keep myself in work.
 

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