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Hey all,

I'm just starting to dabble in my own testing just to gain experience, while awaiting a course start.

Some questions I'm not sure about are below and I'm hoping someone with loads more experience could guide me somewhat in my learning please ?

Of course I get all the usual testing like r1 rn r2 and R1+R2 etc. but what happens when as I've seen many times before on site.

1. Ring main has been spurred to supply a sfcu or dp switch and onwards to feed then an exterior floodlight or under floor heat mat for instance ? i.e. ( do you need to switch off the sfcu etc and test to the socket before the spur ? which neglects to test the full extension on the cct or should you open up accessory / sfcu & test at terminals with say the cable feeding the flood light or whatever the load is disconnected ? I'm thinking that IR test would maybe damage light internals or heat mat etc.. ? and also that the cable out to load from fcu may be smaller e.g. 1.5mm as opposed to 2.5mm feed to it from the ring, which would play havoc with the resistance readings taken.

2. EFLI test with socket adapter in socket on ring, but if as above has been spurred off to feed something else through an fcu etc.. do I need to open up the plate and efli test from the terminals on the fcu to cover all the circuit ? and it may change the results somewhat surely ?

3. If conducting an IR test on an existing install and therefore being able to test with L&N connected together to cpc and not separately as to avoid any damage to sensitive electronics for instance, should all lamps still be removed on circuit involved to avoid damage & or bad results ?

4. As above with an mcb supplying an immersion / water heater cylinder wired through a time clock ( time switch ) of mech or electronic nature would the IR test say damage the time clock ? and therefore need it disconnected first ?

5. Heat mat testing other than recommended usual resistance testing before, during, after install to check not been damaged, would an IR test be good practice ? or could it damage the heat cabling in mat ? I'm thinking it would prob be o.k.

6. If say just fitting new install to one area e.g. a kitchen is it fine just to test the new works and certificate that ? plus the ze, PFC, PSSC for the whole board at incoming main switch too ?

7. Finally any other advice from you very experienced testers that any tests would cause problems such as IR tests on other sensitive equipment to avoid / disconnect ?

Apologies for the long one, but at college they only teach you the bays with very standard basic circuits not all the variations and added spurs to feed new items you see after years of people adapting their homes !!

Thanks for any help at all.
 
Hey all,

I'm just starting to dabble in my own testing just to gain experience, while awaiting a course start.

Some questions I'm not sure about are below and I'm hoping someone with loads more experience could guide me somewhat in my learning please ?

Of course I get all the usual testing like r1 rn r2 and R1+R2 etc. but what happens when as I've seen many times before on site.

1. Ring main has been spurred to supply a sfcu or dp switch and onwards to feed then an exterior floodlight or under floor heat mat for instance ? i.e. ( do you need to switch off the sfcu etc and test to the socket before the spur ? which neglects to test the full extension on the cct or should you open up accessory / sfcu & test at terminals with say the cable feeding the flood light or whatever the load is disconnected ? I'm thinking that IR test would maybe damage light internals or heat mat etc.. ? and also that the cable out to load from fcu may be smaller e.g. 1.5mm as opposed to 2.5mm feed to it from the ring, which would play havoc with the resistance readings taken.
What are you measuring IR or R1+R2, IR: just use L+N to E, R1+R2: test at every point in the circuit for a new install, EICR test at the furthest points of the circuit (where this can be determined, other wise all points).

2. EFLI test with socket adapter in socket on ring, but if as above has been spurred off to feed something else through an fcu etc.. do I need to open up the plate and efli test from the terminals on the fcu to cover all the circuit ? and it may change the results somewhat surely ?
Test at the FCU terminals, worst case scenario for the fixed wiring. If it is easier to get to the equipment terminals test there, and if you get a compliant result then no problem.

3. If conducting an IR test on an existing install and therefore being able to test with L&N connected together to cpc and not separately as to avoid any damage to sensitive electronics for instance, should all lamps still be removed on circuit involved to avoid damage & or bad results ?
You should not need to remove lamps, there may be some sensitive items of electronics that could be damaged, but really all such items should be able to withstand this testing.

4. As above with an mcb supplying an immersion / water heater cylinder wired through a time clock ( time switch ) of mech or electronic nature would the IR test say damage the time clock ? and therefore need it disconnected first ? Switch off the time clock, etc if it has double pole isolation.

5. Heat mat testing other than recommended usual resistance testing before, during, after install to check not been damaged, would an IR test be good practice ? or could it damage the heat cabling in mat ? I'm thinking it would prob be o.k.
Depends on the manufacturers instructions, IR is a good idea in my opinion.

6. If say just fitting new install to one area e.g. a kitchen is it fine just to test the new works and certificate that ? plus the ze, PFC, PSSC for the whole board at incoming main switch too ?
Assess the installation to make sure it safe for you to do your work e.g it is not unsafe and can cope with the additional load, inspect and test your work, provide a certificate for your work.

7. Finally any other advice from you very experienced testers that any tests would cause problems such as IR tests on other sensitive equipment to avoid / disconnect ?
Surge protected socket adapters will show a low IR result as they will divert to earth at 500V. They may not provide surge protection afterward depending on type.

Apologies for the long one, but at college they only teach you the bays with very standard basic circuits not all the variations and added spurs to feed new items you see after years of people adapting their homes !!

Thanks for any help at all.
A few thoughts above.
 
Richard you're an absolute star mate, you've helped me no end and probably answered more that I hadn't thought of too !. If I ever come across surge protected adapters I'll take them out of circuit first.
Something I had forgotten was will I always need a wander lead & need to carry out R2 tests for main bonding etc or not ? As I'm sure years back a cockney spark I worked under just used a drum of singles earth as a wander lead !
Ah yes I remember now as far as max demand for domestic side I was told of formula which is very vague at best but was add all protective devices at CU and x 0.4 for demand or another said add all cb's and divide by 4 ? Is that a really dodgy way to estimate in your opinion ?
 
As long as you can connect it reliably and null the cable resistance out. Although flex would be better than solid strand cable - less trip hazard! Daz
 
The 0.4 times OCPD total is a reasonable estimate on older boards, newer boards tend to have more division of circuits for the same loads.
So an old 1960's install may have four circuits for a five bed house and a new one bed flat may have six or seven circuits but minimal load.
You also need earthing and bonding to be suitable for your work.

You will need some sort of long length of conductive material to use as a wander lead.
 
Test L-N at 250v first time, if you getting megaOhms should be safe to do 500v, if theres something lower then will be either a problem to be investigated or something not isolated.
 
To be fair the reel R2 testers are great (not cheap for what they are though) and saves you the hassle of rolling up your singles / flex each time. Well worth the investment, had mine about 6 or 7 years now and it's wearing well (Kewtech version), also being silicon rubber it bends and follows the floor leaving no trip hazard (or very little risk).
 

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